Day 52 Emma Gorge

 We backtracked from Wyndham to the Gibb River Road and turned onto the infamous road and immediately pulled over to the information boards on road access. A tourist bus had just unloaded its passengers at that point, and no sooner had the Clippers pulled in, then they were immediately surrounded by these tourists asking lots of questions and wanting to take photographs and sometimes people do ask if they can look inside. Matt stepped out into the crowd of paparazzi, while I retreated to the back of the bus, to be out of view of all the photos being taken. 

Finally the tourist bus left and it was safe for me to come out and enjoy the moment. We then headed off down the first part of the road, which is still asphalt, and not far down, we turned off to Emma Gorge. Again, there are views of the Cockburn ranges and the like everywhere you look, the scenery is amazing. The carpark was already crowded but we managed to find a space big enough to park the 3 Clippers. We got info about the walk and headed down the 3.2km return walk. It was graded 4 and difficult and proved as much. There were loose rocks, creek crossings, slippery smooth rocks, scrambles over rocks and tree roots, people coming the other way or wanting to overtake you. Grateful for having waterproof hiking boots, we coped ok. We saw a golden tree snake along the way, a tiny snake that was braving the crowds to have a drink. You had to remind yourself to look up and admire and enjoy the orange and red rocky cliff faces, as you were concentrating so much on not tripping over the rocks.We passed clear rock pools and one was deep which made the water a turquoise colour, but we had been requested not to swim in that. A final rock scramble to reach the end, we had already sensed we were close, as the noise from the gorge pool was amplified by the shape of the pool and the noise carried down the gorge. We could feel the air cool as we reached the end and the circular shape of the rock pool, with mossy green cliff faces and vines creeping over the ledges, a small amount of water flowed down the waterfall, and people of all ages were either in the water or sitting by it. You could tell it was cold, by the body language of a group of men standing in the water, all with arms crossed and shoulders up near their ears. Big boofy blokes with tattoos, it was like “we have to stand in this water to say we’ve done it , tick it off the list, pretend it’s not freezing…” Brenda braved it and stood in it for a few minutes before retreating. We sat and enjoyed the views and took it all in. Helicopters occasionally flew over us, the sound of mirth and laughter as kids clambered over the rocks to jump in, older folk, families, couples and the like, all here enjoying the majesty and beauty around us. The landscape, not the people.  There were some very unmagestic and less beautiful blokes in the water. Just saying …no crocs but plenty of beached whales. We rested up and cooled down, before feeling reenergised to turn around and leave the cool, and face the return trip in the now warmer time of day. The return trip seemed easier as we knew what to expect, but the sun was hotter and had a sting to it, but we made it in good time, as David set a cracking pace. We returned to the carpark, and me feeling quite light headed and not so good, but it was time for me to start my IV fluids, which I was more than ready for. We left the now even busier carpark and headed back onto the Gibb, the road undulating up and down as we regularly crossed creek crossings or would be crossings. We took the turn off onto the El Questro Station, and found the dirt road to be the best we have been on so far. Many creek crossings for Matt to slow down and approach carefully, and drive through the water and rocky creek beds. The last crossing was the longest and deepest, with the water rushing in to the first step of the doorway. The underside of Bridget getting a wash down, with many more to come.

We checked in at El Questro, and found our camp site and settled in for the afternoon. I crashed and had a nap while Matt chilled and answered all the questions of those who walked on by and stopped to ask them.  The whirr of a few generators now fill the air, as people return to their caravans, after a day out. A restful night as we work out what to do tomorrow.

Emma gorge 

The stripes are water falling from above