Day 13 Nhulunbuy rest day in 'Takingthe scenic route to the beach!'

 Today we opted to catch up on chores like washing, and Matt tried his hardest to troubleshoot and fix the failing hot water system, sadly to no avail. There is no parts readily available, yet alone nearby, (nearest parts are in melbourne )so we will have to just use kettle boiled water for washing up and the camp ground showers until we get home. We checked out the local Woolies and got some groceries. Wow exciting day for blogging, readers are overwhelmed, actually no, just whelmed. not quite underwhelmed. heres a picture of a cane toad.

heres a picture of something prettier

lots of coral washed up on the beach. 

 

i spent 4 hours today between internet searches, troubleshooting and general hatred toward an electrical device today. not to mention the two hours i spent on it last night. manufacturers have put so many processes and safety lockouts in place in gas water heater appliances, so that idiots dont get blown up, and then put a computer in charge of how it works. a box full of water, heat and electrics. what could possibly go wrong. i wish i had the old mechanical gas heater with the pilot light back. at least that worked even when the humidity was a bit high.and if you were stupid with it, you blew up and natural selection took its course.  our current unit has a fault code for every day of the week and ive seen all of them this trip. i think its going in the bin at 2 years old. dont buy camec. and their customer support has 0% technical knowledge. rant over.

us in our hire limousine about to discover where all the broken cars end up. 

We went for a short drive with Ian to check out the industrial area and local neighbourhood. (preferable to working on the water heater ) we went to look at the lookout at the highest point in town, only to find that the trees are higher, so they built a three story tower so you could get above the trees and actually see the view, except that they seem to have deemed it too risky to climb, so the put a fence around it to stop you going up. so we turned around and went elsewhere. should've gone to the bakery. 

  Tonight we went and watched Brenda, David, Elise and Simon play Pickleball at the local tennis courts. Kind of looks like giant ping pong! Another perfect weather day, and despite the disappointment of the hot water system failure, it was a relaxing day. however the balls did not resemble pickles at all. confusing sport. did you know that you can play 4 times as many games of pickleball than tennis in the same space? makes singles tennis look like an extravagant use of real estate. 

night view of the town centre - pool and tennis courts 
 

 

Day 12 Nhulunbuy area in our 'Taking the scenic route to the beach!'

 Another cruisy start to the day, as we waited for the drop off, of the hire 4WD we were using for the next couple of days, to enable us to sightsee the harder to reach beaches. The Azure kookaburra, which sounds quite different to the normal Kookaburra calls, were out singing this morning. The night before, it was a Nightjar that was calling. I have been loving hearing these bird calls, that are so different to what we hear at home. Anyway, 5 out of the 6 of us climbed into the ex mining spec dualcab Hilux ute, that due to the blistered window tint needed the windows wound down so you could see out, but then the air con didn't work, so you needed the windows down anyway! It was in our price range to hire, so we were happy to just be not using the Clippers, as there was no way they would have got down the roads we went on today.  Its only got 200000km on it but it looks like it's driven to hell & back. on red dirt the whole way. basically a registered farm ute. actually i need to check the rego... We headed out of town and down the dirt road turnoff, and this dirt road started out wide and well maintained as we drove past the mines, and eventually became a narrow and washed out bumpy road, with blind corners and sections of sand. But it's all part of the adventure as David likes to keep reminding us!! Our first stop was at Macassan Bay, as Elise and Simon had been camping here the night before. It is a beach and area where historically, the Macassan people would trade with the Indigenous locals, for hundreds of years when they would come to fish for sea cucumber. It was a peaceful relationship that benefitted both peoples, but once eventually stopped by red tape from the South Australian government in the early 1900's. We explored the rocks and area, and had morning tea, before we jumped back into the ute and headed for Turtle Bay, another pristine beach with fine white sand and amazing rock pools. If you sit and look long enough into the rock pools, it is amazing what you discover. I spotted what initially I had though were little fish, but i looked hard and noticed that they used side fins a bit like feet,and kind of looked like a gecko in their face and it was decided that they were tiny mudskippers. I had never seen them before. Meanwhile, Matt was spying crabs and taking photos of them. We have loved seeing all these new wildlife local to our diverse nation.

From Turtle Bay, we next stopped at Little Bondi Beach, and enjoyed our lunch under the she-oaks there. It had been a sandy and steep road to get there, and definitely not a road for the Clippers. (Well not a return trip anyway) We took a stroll after lunch and dared to dip our feet in the warm shallow waters, despite being croc territory. We didn't spot any. nothing but my little crabby critters.  After our stroll, we headed back down the sand and dirt road, and back onto the main road. We opted to check out the Mulka/ Yirrkala art and cultural centre in the local Indigenous Yirrkala community. The building was very unassuming on the outside, (this means it looked derelict and closed ) but inside was filled with the most amazing Indigenous art work, historical art and stories inside.(it was much better inside) It was fascinating to read the stories and history and see some artists at work. lots of great indigenous art but really really expensive. 4-5 figures before the decimal point expensive. and some of it was engraved on council road signs that im pretty sure no one paid for, as a base to create art from. heaps of the local trees are ring barked and dead as they have cut slabs of bark off them for the painting bases.i couldnt take any photos in there as there was a ban on photography so youll have to go there yourself. i didnt take any photos of the building cause it was uninspiring. the crabs were better . 

 As we left the building, I noticed a man wearing a Uniting church t-shirt and called out to him and asked if he was the minister of the Uniting Aboriginal and Islander church across the road from the art centre. Although he wasn't the local minister, he worked for the Uniting Church in Darwin, as a support worker for the Northern Regional Council of Congress he told us that there would be an ordination this coming Sunday and it will be an awesome experience to hear the service both in language and English, and to be part of it. So we are aiming to attend. 

We headed back to the Clippers, and enjoyed a read and snack before dinner. There has been one bird call that I heard last year and again this year, and the bird has been elusive to both sight and name. But as I got my medical care ready for tonight, I heard it really close to 'Bridget' and looked out the window, and lo and behold, this tiny grey dove was on the ground. Thanks to google, I was then able to work out it was the 'Peaceful Dove!' so now I can stop wondering. Another happy day and amazing beauty around us, feeling blessed.

the video show maccasins  beach (the rocky bits), little bondi beach and coming back into the township of Nhulunbuy where we are staying. 

 

 

Day 11 Nhulunbuy in our 'Taking the scenic route to the beach!'

 Feeling like we are on holidays, and were able to have a sleep in today. We had a late breakfast of 'bubble and squeak' with the leftover roast veggies, with some tomato, mushrooms and chicken mixed into a scrambled egg. You can be rest assured that although it's holidays, Matt still eats well. (im twice the man i used to be) We decided to do more exploring while the Baker's were on a fishing adventure. We headed to the Town Lagoon, and discovered a 3km nature walk. So we followed the trail, that went alongside the lagoon, with the odd warning sign erected beside the path saying there had been recent sightings of crocodiles. Whilst on the look out for crocs, I was on the lookout for snakes as well, and just as I was thinking that I should look for snakes, I saw one, a tiny, golden tree snake, sunning itself on a pile of sticks, and interwoven into the golden and green weeds that had grown over the sticks. I stopped and tried to call out to Matt quietly, so I didn't scare it away, though Matt will no doubt tell you that I was scared,  but yes I was scared to disturb the snake, not scared of it as such. Matt came back as he had already walked passed it and hadn't seen it, and by the time he was able to get the camera out, it had rapidly retreated back into the leaf litter under the nearby bushes. So you will just have to trust me on that, that it was real! It was real. i saw it too. but the little beggar would've been quick on his feet if he had any, im still amazed how fast something without legs can move. heres one we saw last trip so you dont miss out.

 The walk took us to a wetland and we enjoyed some bird watching and Matt did some photography, but also on the lookout for floating logs. No crocs were spotted, and we continued on the path and back to the bus, where a couple of indigenous girls and their non-indigenous carer, were admiring 'Bridget' and taking selfies. We had a lovely chat with them and they gave us some sight-seeing tips and recommendations too. 

town Lagoon Nhulunbuy 

Our next stop was at Middle Beach. where we took a stroll down the beach to the rocks at the headland, and again always trying to be on croc watch. The tide was out and we were able to walk around the rocks and to the end of Town Beach, where the wind immediately hit us and the sand was blowing towards us. The sand was softer and less coarse, and we sat here for a while and watched the sea. I spied a couple of crocs at different times, coming up for air and then disappearing beneath the green waters. There was also crabs of various sizes and types, busy running and hiding and digging holes. When you walked along the sand, you would see the little shells moving, and then come to a stop when you got close to them. As the tide started to come in, we went back around the rocks, and sat under some in the shade, and continued to watch the crabs, and there was this one particular crab that would keep reappearing come towards us, then run back and disappear down its hole, or not quite entirely disappear, and all you could see were the two little eyes on short stalks, poking up out of the hole!

 

We headed back to 'Bridget' and drove to the other end of Middle Beach and sat on a high spot, under the shade of some she-oak trees. The wind would whisper through the trees, as we ate our lunch, and watched the seagulls dive into the Arafura Sea and catch fish and re-emerge. There was a lagoon at this end of the beach, and a couple of men were fishing there. After lunch, I was suddenly feeling very exhausted in the humidity and connected up to my IV nutrition and fluids, and we headed back to the Walkabout lodge for a rest.

We enjoyed a quite afternoon, and I started to read a book, and Matt was sorting out photos.The Bakers kindly shared some of the fish they had caught at sea, some silver sea bream, which we had wrapped in foil and cooked on the BBQ with options of butter, garlic, spring onions and lemon to accompany it. I had some fish, which was delicious, but unfortunately, did not agree with my stomach later. I just need to remind myself, how good it was to taste and enjoy it momentarily. I headed into the bus to clean up and wash up, and then a few other guests from the lodge came over to ask questions about the Clippers, and had wanted a look inside, and I was relieved that Matt hadn't been open to letting them in, it was 8pm and I was about to go and have a shower. i didnt really want to have people thru when we are trying to pack up for the night. pick your times people. We know it comes with the territory with having the Clipper, but sometimes, you just have to say no, putting up some boundaries is quite ok. But otherwise it was a great day.

oh and the clutch is working nicely again, thanks for asking. 

 

Day 10 Nhulunbuy on our 'Taking the scenic route to the beach!'

 It was nice to have a slower start to the day and hear the waves crashing in the distance. We cleaned our buses inside and out, and then took a rough tour around Nhulunbuy in convoy looking all shiny again. and we top soiled the campground grass, which is now red. We got plenty of smiles, waves, photos taken, as we drove around some local streets. the best wave i got so far is a commodore full of indigenous blokes, and as the approached there was an arm extended with thumbs up, out of every window in the car. it was like it spontaneously grew limbs. i couldnt get a photo, so i got chat GPT (the enemy) to draw me the scenario, just to see how badly it could stuff it up. and well the results were pretty impressive at first glance, until you zoom in on the driver and front passenger, each who have 3 arms. oh well looks like we are still safe in the art department. 

 

 We headed to the Gove yacht club and wharf and got blown away on the stroll down the floating jetty, and went to Melville Bay past the mines to check it out too. There is a large solar farm here. The Gove mine mines bauxite, and will close in 2029. Locals have told us that 1,000 jobs are to be shed in the coming year, which the community is worried about the impact on them all.

 

After lunch, I had a rest while Matt worked on Bridget's clutch.  

Bridget decided not to want to go into gear anymore from a standing start, couldnt get forward or reverse and if i got it into reverse i couldnt get it out without turning the engine off. ended up having to adjust the clutch. 

 We took a stroll to the Town beach with Simon, Elise, Brenda and David, but didn't spot any crocs, just little crabs being busy scurrying around and going in and out of their homes beneath the sand. We watched the waves roll in, and clouds moving in the sky, and the rain fall in the distance over Bremer island. It was a relaxing way to spend the afternoon.

 
We headed home to prepare dinner, as Ian roasted a lamb on his Weber BBQ, while I roasted veggies, and Brenda cooked the greens and gravy. We watched the bats take to the sky at dusk, and took photos of the Clippers parked up together with their lights on for effect. We sat under the cloudy night sky and ate dinner together, and chatted. Another great evening and day. 

 oh and heres a photo of yesterdays python, it doesnt look as big from this angle, and it may be an olive python i think, but im not an Ophiologist...

Day 9 Mainoru Store to Nhulunbuy in our 'Taking the scenic route to the beach!'

 This morning we had an early start and hit the dirt, with us leading the way. Matt gave road warnings on the CB to help the others steer clear of the damaged parts of the road and only after we learned  about them the hard way! (i got better at avoiding then telling about the holes, instead of hitting them, then alerting everyone) There were sections that were washed out or very corrugated, but some sections were really quite smooth and near the bigger creek crossings, there was often bitumen. 'Bridget' still filled with red dirt and Matt regained his red beard and face. The green scenery was constantly changing, with grasses, intermingled with orange flowering gums, and pandanus palm trees, and ferns of various kinds. In some sections, there were the magnetic termite mounds, like we had seen last year at Litchfield National Park. The occasional buffalo dead and alive were seen too, but the snakes were the feature of the day, though somehow I missed spotting all of them and I'm quite grateful for that, I had had enough reptilian close encounters!! i saw a couple of 1-2 metre long snakes on the road, an then at one point i saw what i thought was a tree on the road, but it was a snake that was at least 3 metres maybe 4m. ive looked it up and it may have been an Oenpelli python, which are usually found in west arnhem land, maybe it was on holidays too. i'll get a photo off one of the others tomorrow and put it up, as they stopped to get a photo after i had told them about it. i couldnt stop at the time as i saw it and was past it before i knew it. 

one of the 17 or so landcruisers burnt out by the side of the road on the way up today. this one went in hard though

 There were some pretty amazing looking collections of large rocks and hills made of rocks as well. A great and diverse landscape for sure.

It was a long day staying alert for the drivers, with all sorts of challenges, low gear hill descents, blind corners, flooded causeways, oncoming traffic that didn't slow down to pass you, and then in the afternoon it rained, just enough to reduce the dust and highlight all the low spots, as they filled with water. The downside was that all the Clippers have had a red dirt spray paint job to clean up! As we got closer, we drove past all the Rio Tinto Gove mine activities and vehicles. But we finally arrived at Nhulunbuy around 4.30pm. We checked in to the Walkabout Lodge, where we will be parked up the whole time we are here, but then 'Bridget' refused to start. no power. After creating a quick bypass, as in jumper leads from the battery to the body to get it into the caravan park.  we were able to get parked up and Matt found the main earth strap had relocated itself on the bumpy drive.

Meanwhile, I started the cleaning process with sweeping up the red dirt and then scrubbing the surfaces and floors, so we could walk around inside and not get red feet or eat dinner with red dirt condiments! After Matt had a shower and removed his red beard and Trump tan, we took an evening stroll down to Town Beach, where the grass seemed alive... with cane toads! So it may have been too dark to really appreciate the beach,  but we have the satisfaction that we made it!!!

 

 

Day 8 Katherine to Mainou Store on our 'Taking the scenic route to the beach!'

 Today we opted for a slower start to the day and headed out from Katherine, with Brenda and David's daughter Elise and her partner Simon now joining us for this leg of the trip in their car. Simon and Elise joined us last year to do the Gibb River Road. We took the turn off to Nhulunbuy, some 50km south of Katherine, and took the opportunity for some photos in front of the distance road signs. 

The road for the first 60km was a single lane bitumen strip with well graded dirt on either side, with a speed limit of 110km/hr. Although we didn't drive that fast, a lot of the oncoming traffic did, (clearly they were locals). We stopped in Beswick for morning tea and an explore, but the Indigenous arts gallery was unfortunately closed. and pretty much all that was left to explore was the wrecked cars in front yards and a lot of bats in the trees. just as we left, a current model toyota hilux passed us, it was the roughest hilux id seen in a while. no front on it at all, no windows, and not a straight panel on it. it looked like it had been crashed 7 times, but it was cruising around town like there was nothing wrong.

From there, the bitumen disappeared and the dirt road became quite rough with corrugations, very quickly. Early on, Matt pulled over to reduce the tyre pressure, (cause i was bouncing all over the place. while we were doing this Sal noticed some buffalo walking through the bush nearby and found the orange flowering gum that i liked) 

the lower tyre pressure made the corrugations more tolerable, and he also dropped his speed. We both had noise cancelling earbuds in to reduce the rattle as everything inside 'Bridget' would shake and bounce and get covered in red dirt. The others had gone on ahead, and as we rounded a corner, we noticed the 2 Clippers and car had pulled over and we noticed their hazard lights were on, and Ian was in his overalls. The unscheduled roadside stop was because the tailshaft in Brenda and David's 'Discovery' had broken. For those not in the know, normally this would be a catastrophic breakdown, but with the 'A Team' fellas in their overalls, were soon lying underneath 'Discovery' and pulling out the tailshaft, and it was deemed doable. I went for a walk to place the emergency triangles out to warn the oncoming traffic. Not long after they had removed the tailshaft, they were seated around a table, with parts spread out and they were busily repairing the said tailshaft. They pulled it apart, cut off the shredded metal sleeve, cleaned up and repaired the damaged splines, and put it all back together, and in the bus and we were on the move two hours later. Meanwhile, the rest of us had sat in 'Discovery' and played cards and made lunch. A few passerbys slowed down to enquire if we needed help or to admire the buses. We were amused by a few comments between some truckies over the radio, that in one breath were admiring the buses and the next expletive filled comment was about how crazy we were to be driving them out on this road. If only they knew these buses had been made and used for these kinds of roads in the years of service in the 1950's and 60's, and that we had taken them on the Gibb River Road and Tanami desert and they survived them. After the incident, Ian and David also decided to lower the pressure in their tyres as well. And as David always likes to say "its all part of the adventure!"

I think this is the fourth amendment. the technical description for the failure is that the slip yoke in the tailshaft slipped beyond its capabilities. when the differential goes up and down with bumps in the road, it gets further away from the gearbox. the tailshaft connects the two, and needs to get longer as the diff gets further away when it drops. thats what the slip yoke or splines are for.  its telescopic. but it has a limit and in this case the bump was too deep and the tailshaft came too far apart, and separated, then the two ends argued over who's fault it was that they were now seperate entities, and they smashed each other to pieces. so once out on the table we had to remove all the scars from the punchup, and see if we could get the two ends to talk to each other again , cause they really wouldn't go back together at first, they were very mangled. preliminary dress up with an angle grinder to remove the large chunks, then about an hour of filing, me on one piece and david on the other. till the two became one again and we could reinstall it. i could hear machinists crying as we filed away on our Arnhem land workbench. when failure isn't an option, you do what gets you home. 

my safety triangles case has a motivational sticker of my own design on it...

We continued on, and enjoyed a brief scenic lookout across the 'Jurassic Park', and took a few photos, before we continued along passing some wetlands, water buffalo, I spotted a 'black-necked stork (Jabiru), donkeys, road trains with a full load of cattle, going very slowly and some extensive roadworks. 

The temporary road was better than the rest of the road we had been driving on. Finally we reached our destination, Mainoru Store, on a station, where there was a campground. Everyone already camped there were popping over for a chat and were friendly. We headed off for a walk by the river, and Brenda and Simon spotted a water monitor (big lizard), that was sunning itself by the river. Again there was debris from the floods earlier in the year, and the area was quite rough and torn up too. Matt was still red from being covered in red dust and sand from working on the tailshaft and from having his driver's window open as we drove along. He was grateful for having a warm shower before dinner.

We had dinner under the stars again and a lovely chat, before retiring to have an early night after a wearying day and knowing we only drove 170km of this road and we have another 480km to drive tomorrow to reach our final destination...the beach!