Day 12 Kings Canyon to Redbank Gorge

 After a slower morning, we headed off from Kings Canyon, and onto the first stretch of dirt road for the trip; down the Mereenie Loop Road (now named Red Centre Way). We had done our best to cover up and reduce the risk of the Clipper filling up with dirt, but we knew it was inevitable, that things would get covered in red dirt, and they did. It was over 150km of corrugations and a few rutted sections where recent rains had washed out the road. We were travelling about 50km/hr, along the stretch and spotted wild donkeys and horses along the way. There was many amazing escarpments of varying types and it was all very green too. Every 5 minutes or so, I was up closing all the windows that were being rattled open along the bumpy road, and it was very loud inside the Clipper. Eventually we reached asphalt again, and it was quieter, and I could enjoy the views without worrying about self-opening windows.

We had lunch at a lookout that had views out to Gosse Bluff, which reminded us of Wilpena Pound in the Flinders Ranges. We continued on until Redbank Gorge, where we had booked to camp for the night in the National Park. We ventured into the gorge and walked along the creek bed, until we reached the water holes. We spotted some fish swimming in the puddles along the way, some up to 15cm long. Not sure what happens to them, when the water dries up. David and Matt explored the water hole further, while Brenda and I sat and enjoyed the quiet. We were able to watch a little finch fluttering about being busy, in one of the small gum trees, which had managed to thrive with its roots firmly entwined into the rock it was growing out from. Brenda also spotted a black footed rock wallaby, hopping up around the cliff walls. The cliffs around the gorge lived up to their name and were orange red, but the lower rocks that had been washed smooth by water over time, some were burgundy red, and others purple and others had faded to a pale grey.  It was really quite beautiful. If you were quiet enough, all you could hear were the trillion flies buzzing around. Some grey clouds appeared overhead, and the colours of the rocks became more intense. The whole area was again very green and healthy looking, with a few shy wildflowers emerging. We headed back to the Clippers and then went up the lookout towards Mount Sonder, part of the Larapinta Trail for avid bushwalkers and the fourth highest mountain in the Northern Territory. 

We headed to the campground and had a quiet evening in and waited for the sun to set and the trillion flies to dissipate, before we attempted to cook dinner on the BBQ. Another lovely day on this adventure..

 

Day 11 Kings Canyon

 We got up fairly early, so we could do today's walk before it got too hot. We drove back out to Kings Canyon and started the rim walk. This involved walking up the edge of the canyon via many steep, rocky stairs. The path was well marked, but you did have to watch your footing. We stopped often to admire the views and catch our breath. Once at the top, we then took our time to explore the various rock formations and views. We found a path that led to a lookout, that many of those doing the walk would bypass, which was a shame for them, as the views were breathtaking and spectacular, as you looked across to the other side of the canyon, but also got very close to the edge. Matt reminisced about when he did the walk with good mates Rod and Gary, 30 years ago, except they may have done some things that young men who think they are invincible would do. We continued back on the path, and went down into the valley between some rock faces, and then into a section known as the Garden of Eden, where we found a rockpool and more amazing rock features. Again, worth the effort to see. Then it was back up to the top and along the other side of the canyon rim, and mate David got very close to the edge to spy the sheer face of the cliff that went straight down. We did observe the AED devices and first aid boxes dotted around the track, nice to know had we needed them.

Eventually the track slowly took us down the other side and back to the carpark. All in all, it took us over 4 1/4 hours, and the track wasn't easy in parts and slow and steady was the best way to go. With the add on sights, we walked over 7km, but it was a much harder walk than the Valley of the Winds, at Kata Tjuta. Again, I was proud of my achievement to accomplish this walk. We had fun together, being able to share the adventure with David and Brenda. 

We returned to the campground for lunch and to rest and recover in the afternoon. We headed back over to the bar and enjoyed another beautiful sunset over the Kings Canyon and found some sisters that we had chatted with on the Valley of the Winds walk, and we had a lovely chat with them again, as the sun set and  the stars started to come out and the almost full moon lit up the sky. You do start to see the same people along the way, and strike up conversations, with the buses often being the topic of discussion. Then it was dinner and a quiet night in to write this. We both wished our Mums a happy Mother's Day and I thoroughly enjoyed today's adventure as a way to celebrate mine. Though tomorrow I may feel my age after the effort of today.

Day 10 Yulara to Kings Canyon

 We had a slow start this morning, as we packed up and headed off to Kings Canyon. It was 10 degrees but the feels like was 6 degrees, but once the sun appeared, it warmed up to a perfect 26 degrees. We had a good drive to Kings Canyon, and I enjoyed the scenery changing again, to being more mountainous and I enjoyed the growing escarpments on one side of the road.

I learnt a new term today from a truckie over the CB, who said he'd much rather pass us in the clipper (while taking photos) than all of those square "wobbly boxes" that he usually has to round up. i think we made his day, he was very chatty.  

 I spied a few wild horses along the way. We headed straight to the canyon, and after lunch, with our heads adorned with the new fly nets, which made the trillion flies more bearable, we walked about 2km along the creek bed walk and back. A pleasant walk, in the cool and shade, as you marvelled at the majesty and colours of the cliff faces on either side. Matt reminisced on his 30 year old memories of walking along the creek bed, and how it had changed to being a sturdy manicured path, rather than clambering along the rocky creek bed. As we drove away from the canyon, we spotted a very lean and boney wild dingo, that didn't look so good and was scared of us as we drove past. 

After checking in at the campground, we had a quiet afternoon, before heading over to a outdoor bar that had the Kings Canyon escarpment as it's feature view, and we watched the sunset with a few drinks. Great way to start another relaxing evening. We had dinner together, before heading in for a quiet night to write this, as tomorrow we plan on doing the walk around the top of the canyon. We are starting to really settle in to this way of life. Matt is definitely in his happy place driving his dream bus.

 

 

Day 9 Kata Tjuta

 

 Today we ventured out to Kata Tjuta and I decided to brave it, and attempt the Valley of the Winds walk. It was a 7.5 km walk with a grade 4 difficult and steep rating. The track was very well maintained and easy in parts but it took us between the rock formations, and up and over a smaller adjoining rock between two tall formations with sheer cliff faces on either side and then over to the other side, and through the valley and then back to the start. The conglomerate rocks were as majestic around us, as they were from afar. The path was steep, and you had to remember to stop and look up to appreciate the size and beauty of the cliffs around you, and not just focus on not falling over. We had wonderful conversations with friends David and Brenda as we walked together, so the difficulty and the time passed much more easily. The trillion flies also came with us, but would always disappear when the gusts of wind came through, as the valley lived up to its name. The breeze was most welcome, from the sun bearing down on us. It took a little over 3 hours to do, and I was so proud of this achievement. I needed a break and extra IV fluids after the effort, but for me this was huge and I loved every minute.

during the walk i had constant reminders of a previous visit here in 1995 that i did with my mates Gary and Rod , where valley of the winds took on several meanings,mainly due to the diet of tinned irish stew at the time, we have a photo of Gary and Rod doing Peter Garrett impersonations in the middle of the valley, which i unfortunately couldnt recreate as they have declared that vista a "no photos due to cultural significance" location. probably better for the greater good too.  

 We returned to the camp ground to recover and rest, before we explored the Desert Sails shops and found some fly nets to wear for future walks, to reduce the fly factor. Matt spotted a little gecko on our stroll around. The Clippers are creating a bit of a stir and we keep noticing both tourists and Yulara resort staff doing a drive by with cameras in hand through the campground and past us. I was accosted by another old bloke this afternoon telling me his endless bus stories...

After an early dinner, we went out to the drone show, that we had booked. We were meant to go the previous night, but we had been told the drones might not be flying due to the wind, so we decided to postpone to tonight instead of risking them not flying. We found out that they did end up flying last night after all. But sadly, for us tonight, the wind picked up and they didn't fly the drones, so disappointing for us. But Matt, David and Brenda were able to enjoy the wine and cheese platters and they did provide a laser light show, that was spectacular in itself.

i probably shouldnt mention that David said out loud that a nicely dressed older lady had a tea cosy on her head , much to the amusement of a different lady standing within earshot, to whom Brenda apologized for her husband, but i'm sure it had nothing to do with the wine , and it was just an accurate observation, Sal better keep writing the rest, cause the wine kept coming, and it has kicked in....

 I know we will feel the effects of the walk tomorrow, but it was well worth it. I really felt God's presence in the rugged beauty and magnificence of Kata Tjuta, and to be honest, I reckon they are actually more amazing than Uluru, especially since doing this walk. It was very spiritual there and I can understand why it is such a significant place for the Indigenous people in the Anangu area.

Day 8 Erldunda to Uluru

Short drive today, only 240km. 

I've decided on a new format for knowing who is writing this blog , as we both have a go from time to time, although Sal writes most of them and uses capital letters more than me. 

So Matt writes in Italic as i have done here and

Sal will write in straight normal text.   cause shes not as wonky and distorted as me. 

that way i dont have to keep saying "matt here" though everyone would know cause i didn't use capitals or apostrophes . 

on to today...

We had a sleep in, due to the lesser distance heading out to Yulara. We had a brief stop at the lookout to Mt Connor and became another attraction for the tourists getting off a tour coach at the lookout. We reached the big red rock in the middle of nowhere, and took the Mala walk around some of the key sacred sites. It was a walk we had taken our kids on back in 2004, aged 6 1/2, 5 1/2, 3 and 1 1/2. Needless to say it was a lot quieter and faster this time around, but I did miss those little people. From there, we did the drive around the rock, before getting educated at the cultural centre. It was a perfect 26 degree day, but the flies were out in their trillions, and we were constantly fighting to breathe and not swallow them. After checking in to the campground and doing some washing, we headed out in the Baker's Clipper to the sunset viewing area; but this time, we got to park in the bus zone viewing area, which despite being full of coach tours, we had a better view and it was less crowded. The little Clipper coach looked quite small with the big coaches on either side. We even had cheeses and drinks to enjoy like the proper tour groups. It was a beautiful sunset and worth the effort. We headed back to the campground for dinner and a quiet night.

 

Day 7 Mt Eba to Erldunda

 We awoke early, as my pump alarmed, and Matt lifted the blinds to reveal an emerging sunrise on the horizon. So we were able to enjoy this spectacular way to start the day, and I was able to write my prayer journal, immersed in God's creation. Before long we were back on the road, and reached Coober Pedy. We popped into the shops to grab a few fresh items, before getting back on the road. We had lunch at Marla and a break, and like most times we stop, got surrounded by people asking questions or wanting to take photos of the Clippers. Back on the road, I was able to participate in a Zoom call for one of the research projects that I am involved in, as a consumer advocate. I sat on the bed up the back, while Matt was driving and I talked with the researchers back in Queensland (thanks to having the Starlink). After the meeting and I had a nap, we crossed the border into the Northern Territory. The difference in the flora and vegetation couldn't have been more stark, between the two states.  It became very green, with lots of lush grass, different types of trees, different soil, and the rocky outcrops and mountains were different, as soon as we crossed the border. It was evident that NT received the rain and SA missed out. SA had been very dry, brown, and the soil was rocky and trees were short and many were dead. It was also very flat. Interesting to observe,

 

 

just before we got into NT, we had heard earlier in the day on the UHF radio, that there was a road train that had lost it's third trailer  near the border. as we got closer to the incident, there was only the other truckies letting each other know that "ya had better take it easy up ahead as theres a trailer rolled over and dirt and gravel everywhere " what they failed to mention was that it was still in the middle of the road. with one copper parking his car infront of it with the lights flashing in the lane it was blocking. no traffic control, no signs, just a dead trailer and a copper that we saw after we had passed it. 

 

We ended the drive today at Erldunda, the corner of the Stuart and Lassetter Highways. We had stayed here when we took our 4 children to Uluru, back in 2004, when our youngest was only 1 1/2. Some things had changed, but some were still the same. We arrived in time to head over to a viewing platform and watch the sunset. We were able to take some great photos, as we enjoyed the beautiful colours and cloud formations as the sun disappeared on the horizon, with our Clipper travelling companions, Brenda and David, and a few others staying in the campground. The other campers warned us to expect a very early wake up call from the resident rooster 'Cluck Norris'.  A slight mishap with my TPN tonight, but luckily  we have spares, so I don't miss out on fluids and nutrition. We head to Yulara tomorrow.

 

Day 6 Peterborough to Mount Eba near Coober Pedy

Today was a long day of driving, but the scenery was varied and quite spectacular. We wound our way past the outer mountains of the Flinder's Ranges, before reaching the sea at Port Augusta. The farms are very desolate through Orroroo and Wilmington. We stopped at Pimba for lunch before heading out to Woomera to explore the former missile research and testing facilities. Very interesting museum and insight into the community that lived and worked there from the early '50's. From there it was back onto the Stuart Highway. Tonight we have stopped about 130km south of Coober Pedy, on a roadside stop. Great night to watch the sunset and stargaze. It's very dry out here and very flat, you can see quite a distance away, including watching the trucks pull up 5km away at the truck stop. Hence, a great place to test long range missiles!

 

Port Augusta

Woomera

 

Mount Eba (no mountain though)