Day 21 Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge)

 Awoken in the middle of the night by Curlews with their haunting almost screaming call, followed by disturbed teens from the nearby school camp, presumably because of the birds' call scaring them; we started the day with a cruise on the river through 3 of the gorges, with 30 of these year 8 kids. We had a good tour guide, sharing the Dreamtime stories and geological history of the gorges. After we reached a rocky area, we hopped out of one boat and then a short walk away, we got into another boat, after enjoying a little Indigenous rock art on the gorge cliffs. From there we were taken down a second gorge, and heard how the 1955 film 'Jedda' had been filmed there. We again got out and a short walk away into a third boat for the third gorge. After we explored the gorge, we were taken to a sacred women's site, where they went to birth, the Lilypad rockpool. Surrounded by sheer cliffs, with a waterfall and some rock art high up on the cliffs, the cold, green water was inviting but too cold for us, but all the teens and a few brave oldies on the tour had a swim. Matt was able to take photos of the rock art with the zoom lens on the camera, so we could get a better view of the art. We eventually headed back to the boat and returned to the second boat and gorge, spying a few freshwater crocs on the return trip. 

 

saw our first multi toothed chompy log

We headed to the Clipper, and I had a rest, before we started doing some research for some future activity options in Kakadu. Matt and I then headed back to the gorge, and did a steep walk to the lookout to enjoy the sunset.We got there in good time and were able to briefly enjoy the views to ourselves and there was no boats whirring about on the water, and we could enjoy the beauty and nature that we were surrounded by. We were then joined by a couple of others to watch the sun set behind the smoke haze from fire management, and some beautiful clouds, which brought more colour to the skies. It was really quite spectacular, and well worth the effort, as I was carrying my heavy IV nutrition at this time of night.

 On our return trip, we spied our first live Kangaroo (as in the first live kangaroo we have seen in almost 6000km . we've seen a lot of overnight road kill kangaroos, all of them modified by road trains, emus pigs and eagles, but no live bouncy kangaroos.) and as we headed on, and it was getting dark, we heard a rustle in the leaf litter, and spied the back half of a snake, which we saw disappear down the hill, and it was about 1-1.5m long and we suspect was a Northern brown snake (AkA Danger Noodle). We returned to the Clipper for me to cook dinner and watch a bit of Football (soccer) with David and Brenda, as their daughter was playing in the NT premier league series, and it was being broadcast. The curlews came out again and serenaded us with their cry, before I retired to my nightly routine of writing this blog.

 

Day 20 Katherine

 We left Mataranka and headed to Katherine, another beautiful day. We went to the visitor's centre and got some more info and arranged our activities for our couple of days in the Katherine area. After a quick shop, we headed to the hospital and were able to collect my first medical stock delivery. I feel so blessed to be given this life sustaining nutrition, and have it shipped so far from home, so I can have these moments of being normal and get to enjoy life and exploring our amazing country. We managed to find a place that sold the electrical components that we needed to fix the water pump in the Clipper, so it's good to have that fixed and not have the water turn off at the most inconvenient times. (like having just started washing your hair)

We headed out to the Cutta Cutta Caves and enjoyed a tour of the caves. They are limestone caves with some amazing features within. There was a resident olive python near the path in the cave, that was over 4 metres long and was really quite beautiful, it almost didn't look real. From there we headed out to the Nitmiluk National Park/ Katherine Gorge and booked in for the next couple of nights. We had a visit from the young family that had done the cave tour with us, as their young sons were fascinated in the buses. We enjoyed the evening and dinner outside, as it was warmer than Mataranka and a nice night.

the world above

and the world below

olive python 3-4m long 

Day 19 - Mataranka (still)

 Today was another low key day, we are on holidays! We headed into Mataranka and visited the museum and read up about the local history, which was interesting and included the WWII army camp and at one stage, they had wanted to make Mataranka the capital of the territory. We just chilled in the afternoon back at the caravan park, before heading out to Bitter Springs for a last float in the thermal pool. This time I got to see 3 turtles and a fish in the crystal clear waters. It was very relaxing to float along in the tyre inner tube in the approx 32 degrees water. There was even a guy singing and playing his guitar by the pool, so even had entertainment. We returned to the Clippers and after dinner, proceeded to watch the full version of the movie 'We of the Never, Never'. We have been enjoying our own time in the never never area, and can recommend the thermal springs as well worth the visit. Tomorrow we head to Katherine and to the hospital to get my next few weeks worth of medical supplies, and hopefully all that was ordered will be there. 

Roper river - didnt see any crocs

Day 18 Mataranka 2

 This morning we headed into town to the local markets. There was a handful of small stalls selling local produce and fresh food and various other items. We got chatting to some locals running one of the stalls, and this Indigenous fellow Aaron, who was particularly chatty. He is training to be a teachers aide at the school in his nearby community, and was telling us about his studies and how he was aiming to be a PE teacher but was also helping teach the Indigenous cultural studies as well. He talked about all the brilliant programs that the school and community runs to get the kids to school and engaged to learn, as well as a school exchange with a school in Sydney, where their kids spend a week in Sydney and the Sydney kids come to Mataranka. He was a fascinating guy, and it was so encouraging to hear about an Indigenous community  having some positive things happen, and that some of the kids are going on to further studies when they leave.

From there we headed out to the Elsey National Park and visited the cemetery, where the real life characters from the movie and story 'We of the Never Never' by Mrs Aeneas Gunn, resided. We were able to see where the original homestead was located, and where they lived back in 1901-1903. We headed to the Mataranka Homestead, and saw the replica Elsey Homestead made for the set of the movie 'We of the Never, Never'. I saw this movie in primary school, as a school excursion, and loved it. I have also read the book, so being able to be immersed in the land Jeannie and Aeneas Gunn lived in, was pretty special. We then explored the thermal springs at the homestead, which have been cleaned up for tourism, but we thought were not as nice as the Bitter Springs, we had been in yesterday. We opted to have lunch here and they started to show the movie 'We of the Never, Never' but the venue was too loud to hear it well, so we headed off. David and Brenda were exploring the area on their e-bikes, while Matt and I went out through the Elsey National Park, to Roper River. On the way, some wild pigs and piglets ran out across the road. Not quite bacon! At the river, it was still very full, and the 8.4km return walk out to the Mataranka Falls was closed due to this, and the increased chance of encountering a croc, both salt water and fresh water crocs can be found in this river. Matt and I were not keen to take any risks!!

We headed back to our caravan park and ventured back down to the Bitter Springs thermal waters and this time, I was not connected to my IV nutrition and was able to cruise down with the current in the inflated tyre inner tube, and keep my central line above the water. It was sensational to be able to be in the warm waters and look into the crystal clear water to look for turtles. Matt brought the snorkel and mask and was able to get a better view of the bottom and spied 3 turtles. It was a delightful and relaxing way to spend the afternoon with David and Brenda on pool noodles, and as we had gone a bit later, the place wasn't so crowded and noisy. The down side is getting out, and then running in the cool to get back to the beginning, to float down again in the warm waters - natures own theme park ride!

We headed back to the Clippers for a hot shower, dinner and the caravan park was showing the movie 'Guardians of the Galaxy' and Matt, David and Brenda went and enjoyed that, while I wrote this up.

Day 17 Mataranka

This morning we went for a walk and explored the Daly Waters town a bit further, spotting that Kevin the crocodile was in another position, and the free range donkeys like to knock over the garbage bins and help themselves. We did the obligatory pose of Bridget outside the Daly Waters pub, before heading to Mataranka.

 We stopped at the park in Mataranka to admire the roaming Brolgas. After checking in at the caravan park and catching up on washing, and Matt was trying again to fix the faulting water pump, and after I had a rest; we headed down the road to see the Bitter Springs. These springs are thermal and the water is very clear and a pale blue, with the occasional turtle visible; and are surrounded by tall palm trees. There is a current, so you step in where they have stairs, and you can then float down slowly on a pool noodle or inflated device, get off at the bottom, and walk back up to the top and repeat. Apparently you can spot the odd freshwater crocodile in the springs, but not today. I was connected up with my pump to IV nutrition, so couldn't go in today, but just sat and dangled my legs in the bath like temperature water and watched the many families and couples enjoying the springs. It was a relaxing afternoon. 

We headed back to the caravan park and finished off the washing and Matt continued to work on the misbehaving water pump switch. Many caravaners came and commented or quizzed Matt about the Clipper, as we are used to. You get a range of people like the time wasters, who are the know all but know nothing, or people just wanting to say how great they look or ask to take a photo. Sometimes, I go inside and shut the door and hide, but quite a few mornings this trip, I have been up early in my pyjamas and doing my morning IV care and noticed people taking photos. A taste of what celebrities experience, I guess. It was a nice to day to be slow and not much driving.

Day 16 Daly Waters

 Early this morning, we were both awoken by the howling of a dingo, it sounded nearby but we opted not to get up and look for it. (all babies were accounted for upon sunrise) But Matt did get up in time to watch the sun rise and take more photos at Karlu Karlu. We headed off early, as we had another 500 or so kilometres to drive today. We did encounter some hills and bends though but it was an easy drive, and again we found it to be quite green and there was still water in some creeks. Wattle and a few other natives were flowering, so it was quite pretty as well. We had been conserving water in the bus, not knowing when we would next fill up; so to be saving water, I decided to shave my legs with a bowl of water, whilst we were driving along. So I got a bowl of water, a towel and my razor and shaved my legs. Then I thought, no one can see me as we drive along, so I decided to shave my armpits too. I took my top off and proceeded to do my left side, and then as I turned my head and body to do the right side, I notice this 4WD was overtaking us.😱 The female front passenger was nodding her head, presumably to acknowledge that she liked the Clipper, and not because she saw me in my black bra shaving my armpits!! (I wondered why she looked t me strangely as they went past.) I am just telling myself, that if she had realised what I was doing, that I gave her something to smile and talk about with the driver of the vehicle, and with any luck, if we see them again, that she won't recognise me. (no photos of all that sorry)

We stopped at Elliot for lunch, and a local council worker, came and told us how he was last in a Clipper, when he was 5 years old, (he wasn't 5 anymore) to be taken to Mt Isa for medical checks. He was thrilled to see them again. Elliot is a town that has about 3 streets off the main highway, a park, 3 servos (one derelict) two general stores (one derelict), a pub (derelict) and more broken cars in peoples front yards than there are people in the town. oh and a police station, though i couldn't tell if it was derelict cause police residences in this part of the NT are built like prisons where the guards live on the inside. over all, its a run down old town but the people were friendly , but the town had seen its best. probably in the 60's.

 We arrived in Daly Waters, in the early afternoon, and found a queue into the campgrounds of the iconic Daly Waters Pub. Fortunately, we were able to still secure a site for the night. We headed out to explore the tiny town and went through the motor museum and saw many quirky and historic vehicles either fully restored or in the process of being restored. There was all sorts of other things around the site, like helicopter shells, Cessna plane shells, and a live freshwater crocodile named Kevin! Later we saw a couple of friendly donkeys and horses just strolling around town.  The Daly Waters pub is infamous for having people leave behind items and have them stuck up on the walls, including business cards, bras, thongs, badges, polaroid photos and more. It is also famous for serving a beef and barra dinner, which Matt, David and Brenda enjoyed. The place was very full, as the peak travel season is starting to get under way. Matt and I felt young and in the minority, (kill me if i wear a "i'd rather be in my caravan" tshirt) though there were a couple of young families and young adults there. The trillion flies seem to have been left behind at Karlu Karlu and the weather is starting get a fair bit warmer. The roads have got rougher too, but we are looking forward to more amazing things to come.

 

i had a truckie compliment us on the busses as he went the other way over the CB radio, i told him that we had left sydney specifically with the intention of showing them to him this morning, so that he had something interesting to look at on this part of his drive. "ah very good" he said. 

😒The thanks you get sometimes...

 

Day 15 Karlu Karlu (Devils Marbles)

 An early start to drive to Karlu Karlu  (Devils Marbles) and get stuck into the several walks around all the granite rock features, before it was too hot. The trillion flies came with us on the walks, but they always disappear when there is a strong breeze or after the sun goes down. The walks today were on mostly flat ground, so very easy. These rocks are in unusual stacks, and are mostly rounded from the weathering over time, and some have split. This is a sacred site for Indigenous women. We returned from a couple of walks and I needed to connect up to my IV nutrition, before we could head out again to do the last walk. We returned for lunch, and I caught up on some Inphase Audiovisual accounting and banking, and then we had a quiet afternoon resting, before Matt got stuck into finding the holes letting the dust in, and filling them with gap filler, so hopefully we won't gather so much dust when we travel on dirt roads. We headed out just before dusk to capture the photos below, when the sun's rays hit the red rocks and gave them an extra glow. It's not hard to sense and feel our creator God's presence and handiwork in places like these, and I am enjoying having this time to be still, and know God. Once the sun had disappeared, I cooked dinner, then we headed back out under the stars before we enjoyed another moon rise. We were joined by some fellow campers who we had met at Kings Canyon. It's not hard to recognise us!!