Day 73 Geikie Gorge

 This morning we packed up and said farewell to Ian, Meredith, Brenda and David. Feeling grateful and blessed for the fun, laughs, team work and memories we have created and shared in doing the Gibb River Road in Clippers together. We moved on from Broome and back down the road towards Derby, but turned off onto the Great Northern Highway. A fairly straight road, we stopped for lunch by a giant boab tree, and continued on until we reached Fitzroy Crossing. 

Every now and then you’ll go through an area where there are thousands of anthills, the colour of which obviously changes depending upon the soil in the area . I haven’t taken a photo of the ones around where we are tonight yet , but they look like, well diprotodon do do. It looks like the dinosaurs have just dumped stuff everywhere.  There you go. Yet another glimpse into my brain. 

We drove through town and out to Geikie Gorge. At Geikie Gorge, there was an easy and very short walk that passed some dark grey layered rocks and escarpments on one side, and we walked out to where the water was. We sat down and took the time to observe the gorge. On the other side of the waters, was another rocky escarpment, with a very obvious high tide mark where the rock changed from grey to white. The high tide mark was from the 2022 cyclone Ellie and the floods associated from the storm. Within the waters, we spied some floating crocodilian logs, and watched some cormorants diving for fish and re-emerging many times, before it then sat on a rock with the wings being held out to dry. We could hear all sorts of other birds and see some flit and fly around the trees. Not the most spectacular of gorges, but beautiful none the less. I was a little disappointed as there were no geeks at all in geeky gorge.  No IT department, no pictures from Star Wars, in fact it looked more like a rock formation. Poorly named.  But the cormorant had a long neck and looked somewhat eccentric…

From there we returned to the main road and kept going towards the east. We pulled over to check on a car that had the bonnet up with people inspecting the engine. But they were ok. We also drove past this a very swollen cow lying on its side with legs sticking straight out, a full blown 4 poster …and on the other side of the road, a smashed up Rav 4 car in a ditch. We were able to workout what happened there, cow versus car - nil all. That’s the third car vs cow we’ve seen on this trip. None of the cars survived. Or the cows.  Some spectacular red rocky escarpments and hills appeared out of nowhere and as it was approaching sunset, the colours were pretty awesome. We found a free camp site, the best we have found so far, called Ngumban Cliffs. Not only is it on a cliff top with spectacular views, it has an EV charging station, a dump point for RV’s, a dumpster bin for rubbish, toilets, picnic tables under awnings, and to top it off, not one person came over with a million questions, opinions, or photo requests! We arrived just in time for sunset and got to enjoy another great one, and after dinner we got another great golden moon rising. A lovely day.

Day 72 Southern Cable Beach and Staircase to the Moon

 This morning the 3 Clippers headed out together to park up at the southern end of Cable Beach, where vehicles are allowed to park on the very firm sand. We managed to find a spot and were able to take photos without other vehicles in the way. The tide was starting to come in, and we soon had to reposition the Clippers closer to the dunes to not be in the water. We set up an awning and I sat in the shade, with views of the azure waters and white sands, as I started to write a story up for the Clipper club newsletter, about the our grand adventure. The morning slipped away, while Brenda went for a walk and swim, David went out on his kayak, Matt and Ian spoke to all those walking or driving past that commented or asked questions about the Clippers, and Meredith did her uni work. Boats came and went, the tide rose and then started to ebb away again, families came and enjoyed the sun and water, people sun baked. There were over 50 vehicles on the beach for the day and to get a spot to enjoy the sunset, later in the day. The sand was was very soft and very fine, and we will be extracting it from the bus forever more, just as we were all day, from our clothes and toes.

After lunch, we headed back to ‘The ranch’ and left Bridget and Discovery behind and all boarded Trailways, and headed out to the Town Beach for the afternoon; to grab a prime position to later view the ‘staircase to the moon’. Matt and I took a stroll down the jetty, and spotted a small stingray, a large and busy school of small fish, turtles and more in the waters below. The tide was receding here, again quite rapidly, and the turtles were slowly heading away too, you would occasionally see their head emerge for another breath. They were too quick to get a photo of them. We set up our chairs in the shade, and sat and chatted. The nearby stalls were opening up, but they were the same market stalls that we had seen on Sunday. Quite a variety of food trucks were also setting up for the evening. Everyone went and grabbed an early dinner, as we sat and we watched the colours of the sky change as the sun set behind us. The crowds and park was slowly filling up with people sitting in chairs, on rugs in the grass or on the rocks in front of us. We did move onto the rocks, when the moon started to rise at exactly the forecast time of 5.53pm. The crowd got excited. There were over 1,000 or more people watching the golden new moon rise above the waters on the horizon, The tide had receded so far back, that the sandy mangrove beds and mud flats had been left exposed, and the moon light reflected upon the slight shallow pools of water left behind, creating the image of stairs leading up to the moon. At one point the crowd cheered the moon. We tried to capture some photos and a time lapse video of the phenomenon. It wasn’t long before the moment had passed and the moon was higher in the sky and the reflections disappeared. The crowd had already started to disperse and half disappeared, while others went to check out the market stalls and food trucks. Ian had managed to score a bus park right in front of the park, and we didn’t have far to carry our chairs and leave,  and head back to the ranch. It was our last night together in Broome and on this Gibb River Road adventure. We were all wearing our new embroidered t-shirts that Ian had made up that said ‘Did the Gibb 2025’ beneath an image of a Clipper. We chatted for awhile as the night was still young, but as we were all weary and some of us have miles to travel tomorrow, we had an early night. Ian and Meredith head home via Kalgoorlie and the Nullarbor, David and Brenda stay in Broome, awaiting a new tyre, and some e bike parts and they will do an overnight flight and cruise to enjoy the Horizontal Falls, and will continue travelling for another month or so. Matt and I turn around and head east, and you can stay tuned to where we head next.

Day 71 Willie Creek Pearl Farm

 This morning we headed off altogether in Trailways to the Willie Creek Pearl Farm. To get there, we had to traverse a very corrugated red dirt road, and Ian had to expertly navigate the Clipper on the road as crazy 4WD drivers overtook at great speed and on both sides of us  at various times. If you left a gap up one side , that’s good enough to pass on apparently. Ian was avoiding ruts and corrugations on the left of the road so was driving down the middle and a landcruiser decided to come past us on the left coming out of the dust 🤦🏻‍♂️ next part of the road was on the pearl farm property, with a sandy and salty plain, fortunately with red markers along the way to mark the route.

We were allowed to park in the coach parking at the farm, where there were beautifully manicured gardens, and sculptures made out of old tools and bits and pieces of steel. Old tools is dependant on your point of view,  some were still perfectly viable till welded to a turtle. 🐢 Some of the sculptures were of a turtle, (made of viable spanners)another was of a person, and these sculptures had also been alongside the road markers to mark the road in. There were areas of broken mother of pearl and oyster shell used as patches of ground cover, or in some of the pieces of artwork dotted around the farm.

We started our tour in the operations room, where they do the care and seeding and harvesting of the pearls. We had a class on the ‘how to’ create cultured pearls and about the different oysters and their anatomy, and how scientists are trying to find a way to use the oyster shells and mother of pearl which is waste, to create bone products for humans, to repair bones or fill holes in bones. The class was very interesting and very informative. From there we were taken outside for a generous morning tea of savoury scones, fresh fruit and chocolate brownies, tea, coffee, and juices.

The next part of the tour involved going on their brand new solar powered flat bottom boat, onto the very beautiful turquoise and azure waters of Willie Creek and surrounds. The boat was very quiet, with only the splashing of water against the sides as we moved along or turned. We were taken out to where they had a nursery and also a palliative care unit for the oysters. We had a lesson on the parasites and diseases that threaten the oysters and how they care for the oysters that are healthy, and try to repatriate the sick ones. From there we were shown around a side creek to look for wildlife and crocs, but no crocs were sighted, only a few Herons were spotted. Upon our return, despite only being gone half an hour, the tide had already gone down so much, that the boat had to be tethered at another location, for passengers to safely disembark. The tides can vary up to about 9m out here.

Same steps 2 hours later 

Upon our return to land, we were taken to another area for a demonstration of how they open up the oysters and harvest the pearls. They had an overhead camera filming the action so we could all see it. We looked at the anatomy of the oyster and why different shells produce different coloured pearls. They then harvested the pearl from an oyster chosen back at the beginning. Although this pearl was a good size, the flaws in it, meant it had no value. We were then taken to the gallery and shop and were told about how they value pearls and that is determined by the size, shape, lustre, colour, and complexion. Of course, then people were free to shop for pearl jewellery. Brenda has an upcoming birthday, so she chose a pearl pendant for a gift from family members. It really was a very interesting and worthwhile tour, which we all enjoyed.  As an aside, the most expensive single pearl there was $250,000.  Quarter of a million dollars, and it could still be swallowed by a small child,  not worth the risk.   

Yes the right one is $101,500.00 dollars 

We headed home back to ‘the ranch’, as Ian has nicknamed the caravan park. Matt and David took turns to drive Trailways home. We again cooked our own meals but ate together and chatted about our day and made plans for the next day. A Dad and his children came over to ask questions about the ‘coolest vehicles’ in the caravan park. He happened to be an automotive engineer, and was interested in hearing about them. The moon is just about full tonight, and we are looking forward to the special ‘staircase to the moon event tomorrow night. So stay tuned for hopefully some amazing photos tomorrow.

Day 70 Gantheaume Point and Sunset Camel Ride

This morning we took Bridget out to give her a wash. It wasn’t easy manoeuvring the equipment over her roof at the car wash, but we soon got her much cleaner and shiny again. So now she looks loved again. We then headed out altogether in Trailways to Gantheaume Point, where there are dinosaur footprints. They are best seen at low tide, and unfortunately it wasn’t low tide for us, but we still enjoyed clambering around the rocks and enjoying the view out to sea. We could see purple coloured jellyfish floating around the teal coloured waters. There was pretty impressive rock formations and Matt did have fun climbing over rocks and taking photos. The lighthouse was also at this point, but wasn’t so much a house as it was a tall metal frame with a flashing light on the top. There was even an Osprey nest in the framework. It was another day of perfect weather and we enjoyed being out in it. We then checked out the ramp where you can drive onto the beach, to make sure we can get a Clipper down it for a photoshoot later in the week.

We returned to the caravan park, and Matt began working on the front suspension and repairing parts that needed welding and make sure everything was all tight and good. Spring mounting bushing needed welding back onto the spring, as it was clunking side to side which was getting annoying. Meanwhile, I was doing some research work, reading through a proposal for a grant application. 

After lunch, it was David’s turn to check his brakes and suspension and he found a broken part that meant his brakes wouldn’t work, the s-cam brake booster mount broke off the brake drum back plate, so he then found a guy that would repair the part for him. Just so happened that at the workshop that he found to repair it for him, worked a man that David used to drive to and from school in Coonabarabran when he was the school bus driver years ago.   The joys of having an old vehicle. He was able to get the part repaired on the spot. Wouldn’t get that sort of service in Sydney. After that was sorted, we all headed back out in Trailways to Cable Beach, and walked out to where we would be riding camels at sunset. We checked in and then got to enjoy the warm shallow waters of the beach and explore the rock pools, while we waited for our turn.

We didn’t have too long to wait and then it was our turn to step up onto a platform on the back of a Ute and onto the camel. Matt and I climbed on board a camel named ‘Amos’. Amos was one of the bigger camels in the line up and he apparently is often grumpy and doesn’t like being touched (most of the camels are rescue camels, so some had issues).  Before long, we were under way and being led down the beach. We were in the middle of the 13 camel line up. The sun was beginning to get low in the sky, and the shadows were growing longer. The staff offered to take photos for us and were very friendly and chatting along the way. Amos the camel was getting a bit impatient and started getting out of line and getting further ahead next to our mate Ian’s legs, as Ian was on the camel in front of us. But the tethering on Amos, meant he couldn’t get much further ahead, and once we neared the end, he got back in line. The clouds in the sky meant we were being spoiled with an amazing coloured sunset. Our ride came to an end, and only moments after we had come to a stop, like on cue, most of the camels proceeded to empty their bladders. It was quite funny, as it was seemed so co-ordinated between them all. While we were waiting for our turn to disembark, we sat and watched the sun set. The beach had crowds enjoying the sunset too. We climbed off Amos the camel and fed him a couple of carrots, which he seemed to really enjoy. Once we were all off the camels, we headed back down the beach, still enjoying the colours in the sky. There was a crowd near the surf club at the beach, and it seemed like all the backpackers from France and South America were out playing beach volleyball and partying on the beach as the sun set. We tried to linger to enjoy the sky as the colours continued to change and light up the sky, but alas it was the final game for the State of Origin, and Ian was keen to get back to watch. We got back in time for him to watch the game, and that’s all I am going to say about that. It’s not hard to see why Broome is a popular destination at this time of year. Again, it’s hard to believe it is Winter. Another great day.

Day 69 Dampier Peninsula

 This morning Matt and I were able to head off and drive in Bridget. The new alternator is working a treat. We left early from Broome and headed out to the Dampier Peninsula. Our first stop was Beagle Bay, where there is an Indigenous Community. Within this community, is an historic Catholic Church, famous for the intricate mother of pearl inlays and designs that ornately decorate various parts of the church. We read about the history of the church and community and the area. It was unique and beautiful and the history was quite fascinating. Some monks from France came out and started the church in the late 1800’s and they learned the local language and then spoke it and translated it, to minister to the indigenous community. They ran a school and tried to help them run a pearl farm, amongst other endeavours, but this failed for them, the women were the main decorators of the mother of pearl in the church. The church is still in use today and has survived many cyclones, though the church bell tower has been restored after falling down in a cyclone, in the early 2000’s. 

From there we continued up the road and to Cygnet Bay. This was a pearl farm, with a tourist hub comprising of a cafe, pearl gallery, caravan park, poorly positioned infinity pool, and many tours left from the beach. There were options for tours of the pearl farm too. We just headed down to the beach and enjoyed the white sand, and ‘azure’ waters ( I stand corrected by my previous description of the water colour at Cable Beach, the water isn’t turquoise or aqua, the locals say it is ‘azure’ blue). The sand was a bit like sinking sand, as you would sink in the wet sand if you stood in one place too long. We found a lookout, so we could see above all the mangrove trees growing by the waters edge. It was a lovely place to enjoy the water.

The road up to cygnet bay was pretty straight. 

We headed onto the next Indigenous community of Ardyaloon. We had hoped to drive through to check out the water and views here, but you had to pay for a permit, and as we had already paid for one at Beagle Bay to see the church, we opted not to here. We turned around and had lunch just out of the community and headed back to Broome. (We had hoped to drive out to Cape Leveque but sadly the road has been closed as they haven’t been able to maintain the area and provide adequate facilities for tourists, which is a shame, as the photos on the net make it look like a spectacular place to see).

Tonight was Elise and Simon’s last night, so we had dinner out at the golf club. The golf club is on the only hill in Broome and has 360 degree views. We got to enjoy the sunset on one side and the darkened night sky on the other, that overlooked the water and the port. We had dinner together to celebrate Brenda’s upcoming birthday. It was a lovely night with wonderful views. We returned to the caravan park  for a dark chocolate mud cake dessert that I had made for Brenda.