Day 23 Litchfield National Park - Buley Rock Pools and Wangi Falls

Today we headed via Adelaide River, to Litchfield National Park. We stopped in at the Adelaide River War Cemetery, where those who lost their lives in the bombing of Darwin  in WWII are interred. It is an immaculately cared for and maintained place, with beautiful, colourful, tropical flowering plants between the headstones. There is a fair amount of historical information as well. For me, it was very interesting, as my Grandfather was a Captain in the army and served at Darwin, as well as other places across Australia to protect our borders. From there we headed to Batchelor, an entrance to the Litchfield National Park, and as we looked up information at the information centre there, we were drowned out by the noises of nearby flying foxes. The area was having controlled burns and it was quite smoky and hazy too.

We wound through parts of the national park, before stopping to see and learn about magnetic termite mounds, and eventually we made it to Buley Rock Pools. These rock pools were a series of little water falls and deep rock pools. They were very popular and it wasn't hard to see why. Being a warm 31 degrees outside, and our Clippers were getting quite warm on the inside, in the midday sun, we were happy to cool off in the refreshing, cold water. The rocks were extremely slippery however, and despite me wearing my water shoes, I still needed the help of others to get in as I was slipping too much. The rock pools were clear and clean, and we enjoyed sitting there and cooling down and relaxing. You could safely move on to the next rock pool through the small water falls, by sliding on your backside carefully and slowly ove the slippery rocks. If you wanted to be like Matt, you could sit in middle of the waterfall and it was as good as sitting in a spa pool, with the water bubbling up your back and all around you. It was a great way to while away the warm afternoon. Some of the rock pools were very deep, and you couldn't see the bottom, despite how clear the water was, but because it was so deep. We got chatting to a few of the other people also enjoying the rock pools. I was able to sit in the cool waters, up to my chest and keep my dressing out of the water as well.

From here we continued on, until we reached Wangi Falls, where we are staying for the next 2 nights. We parked up the Clippers and headed to the lookout to the Wangi Falls. There were 2 very high waterfalls, into a very deep rock pool. I am sure I've seen this place on TV or on an ad for the Northern Territory. It was spectacular. However, as a saltwater croc had been sighted there in the past 2 weeks, the pool is not open to swimming yet. We headed back to the Clippers for dinner, and another quiet evening of chatting and planning for the trip.

every day we are approached by other travellers saying "we saw you at Katherine" or Uluru, or Kings canyon etc,i guess we are pretty easy to spot. every caravan looks the same.

i have developed a hatred of the NT parks booking website that send me to random pages at the worst possible times, hang on, i'm staring to complain about technology, travelling and camping, i'm going grey, eeek  'your jouney to the dark side is almost complete' im turning into a grey nomad😐

think happy thoughts, think happy thoughts. 

 had a very nice afternoon sitting in a 4 metre deep hole filled with water. i'm pretty sure there were no crocs. unlike where we are camped tonight as Sal said.

we found a memorial to a RAAF pilot at the war cemetery  his name was Thomas Claude Smith. same name as my grandfather. the pilot died at 22 though, and i remember my grandfather being a lot older than that, but it did make me think of him, and that horrid yellow and black tablet that i was forced to take while sitting on his lap when i was three. i can still visualize it, and i can remember then throwing it up in his lap. 

not traumatized at all.  

NT drivers don't know what double white lines mean.  and ive been told by a tourist coach driver that they don't know what red lights are either

Buley rock hole

Buley rock hole

Buley rock hole

magnetically orientated termite mounds all face north south

magnetically orientated termite mounds all face north south

Wangi Falls

Wangi falls

 

Day 22 Edith Falls (Leliyn)

 We headed into Katherine and did some errands, before moving on to Leliyn, which is still part of Nitmiluk National Park. We set off to check the rock pools out and headed on the trail that led us to the upper pools and  waterfalls. Again, we were spoiled with some amazing views, as climbed up all the steps on the rocky path. We then had a steep descent to the upper pools, that had quite a few people and young families enjoying the pools and icy cold water. We had got quite hot going up and down the steps, and it was almost midday by the time we had arrived, so we all happily climbed into the water that was very clean, clear, and inviting.  Matt, David and Brenda went and swam around to explore the pools and waterfalls, while I stood in the cool waters, up until the point of the central line dressing, that can't be submerged. It was better than not being in the water at all. Grateful for the water shoes that we had brought, I was able to cope with the rocks and sand beneath me. Eventually, I was able to climb some rocks to reach where Matt, David and Brenda had swum to, and we sat on rocks while our legs dangled in the flow of a little waterfall. It was very relaxing, until they decided they were hungry after the long walk and it was lunchtime, and we headed back to our belongings and they had lunch and we dried off. We continued on the loop trail and up over the other side of the small gorge that the rock pools were in, and down over the gorge, and back to the camping ground. I crashed and had a nap, while the others pottered about doing chores.  Matt arranged the camp sites for the next few nights, as these spots tend to book up quickly now the peak season is starting to take off.

Another restful afternoon chatting, and we enjoyed watching a 'Great Bower' bird that was on the hunt for items. It was very busy and not shy of us at all. These birds go after white and green things and got game and Matt found it trying to get into the Clipper boot to get things for its nest. I cooked Matt a roasted pumpkin risotto, and after dinner and after the sun had set, we heard some rustling in the bush nearby and out came a Curlew. We would later hear the Curlew, joined by a few others, in their haunting scream-like calls. A cloudy night, but a few stars were visible between them. Matt is working on installing another battery charger in the boot, as I write this. Still having a few water pump issues as well, that he is also trying to resolve.

Day 21 Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge)

 Awoken in the middle of the night by Curlews with their haunting almost screaming call, followed by disturbed teens from the nearby school camp, presumably because of the birds' call scaring them; we started the day with a cruise on the river through 3 of the gorges, with 30 of these year 8 kids. We had a good tour guide, sharing the Dreamtime stories and geological history of the gorges. After we reached a rocky area, we hopped out of one boat and then a short walk away, we got into another boat, after enjoying a little Indigenous rock art on the gorge cliffs. From there we were taken down a second gorge, and heard how the 1955 film 'Jedda' had been filmed there. We again got out and a short walk away into a third boat for the third gorge. After we explored the gorge, we were taken to a sacred women's site, where they went to birth, the Lilypad rockpool. Surrounded by sheer cliffs, with a waterfall and some rock art high up on the cliffs, the cold, green water was inviting but too cold for us, but all the teens and a few brave oldies on the tour had a swim. Matt was able to take photos of the rock art with the zoom lens on the camera, so we could get a better view of the art. We eventually headed back to the boat and returned to the second boat and gorge, spying a few freshwater crocs on the return trip. 

 

saw our first multi toothed chompy log

We headed to the Clipper, and I had a rest, before we started doing some research for some future activity options in Kakadu. Matt and I then headed back to the gorge, and did a steep walk to the lookout to enjoy the sunset.We got there in good time and were able to briefly enjoy the views to ourselves and there was no boats whirring about on the water, and we could enjoy the beauty and nature that we were surrounded by. We were then joined by a couple of others to watch the sun set behind the smoke haze from fire management, and some beautiful clouds, which brought more colour to the skies. It was really quite spectacular, and well worth the effort, as I was carrying my heavy IV nutrition at this time of night.

 On our return trip, we spied our first live Kangaroo (as in the first live kangaroo we have seen in almost 6000km . we've seen a lot of overnight road kill kangaroos, all of them modified by road trains, emus pigs and eagles, but no live bouncy kangaroos.) and as we headed on, and it was getting dark, we heard a rustle in the leaf litter, and spied the back half of a snake, which we saw disappear down the hill, and it was about 1-1.5m long and we suspect was a Northern brown snake (AkA Danger Noodle). We returned to the Clipper for me to cook dinner and watch a bit of Football (soccer) with David and Brenda, as their daughter was playing in the NT premier league series, and it was being broadcast. The curlews came out again and serenaded us with their cry, before I retired to my nightly routine of writing this blog.

 

Day 20 Katherine

 We left Mataranka and headed to Katherine, another beautiful day. We went to the visitor's centre and got some more info and arranged our activities for our couple of days in the Katherine area. After a quick shop, we headed to the hospital and were able to collect my first medical stock delivery. I feel so blessed to be given this life sustaining nutrition, and have it shipped so far from home, so I can have these moments of being normal and get to enjoy life and exploring our amazing country. We managed to find a place that sold the electrical components that we needed to fix the water pump in the Clipper, so it's good to have that fixed and not have the water turn off at the most inconvenient times. (like having just started washing your hair)

We headed out to the Cutta Cutta Caves and enjoyed a tour of the caves. They are limestone caves with some amazing features within. There was a resident olive python near the path in the cave, that was over 4 metres long and was really quite beautiful, it almost didn't look real. From there we headed out to the Nitmiluk National Park/ Katherine Gorge and booked in for the next couple of nights. We had a visit from the young family that had done the cave tour with us, as their young sons were fascinated in the buses. We enjoyed the evening and dinner outside, as it was warmer than Mataranka and a nice night.

the world above

and the world below

olive python 3-4m long 

Day 19 - Mataranka (still)

 Today was another low key day, we are on holidays! We headed into Mataranka and visited the museum and read up about the local history, which was interesting and included the WWII army camp and at one stage, they had wanted to make Mataranka the capital of the territory. We just chilled in the afternoon back at the caravan park, before heading out to Bitter Springs for a last float in the thermal pool. This time I got to see 3 turtles and a fish in the crystal clear waters. It was very relaxing to float along in the tyre inner tube in the approx 32 degrees water. There was even a guy singing and playing his guitar by the pool, so even had entertainment. We returned to the Clippers and after dinner, proceeded to watch the full version of the movie 'We of the Never, Never'. We have been enjoying our own time in the never never area, and can recommend the thermal springs as well worth the visit. Tomorrow we head to Katherine and to the hospital to get my next few weeks worth of medical supplies, and hopefully all that was ordered will be there. 

Roper river - didnt see any crocs

Day 18 Mataranka 2

 This morning we headed into town to the local markets. There was a handful of small stalls selling local produce and fresh food and various other items. We got chatting to some locals running one of the stalls, and this Indigenous fellow Aaron, who was particularly chatty. He is training to be a teachers aide at the school in his nearby community, and was telling us about his studies and how he was aiming to be a PE teacher but was also helping teach the Indigenous cultural studies as well. He talked about all the brilliant programs that the school and community runs to get the kids to school and engaged to learn, as well as a school exchange with a school in Sydney, where their kids spend a week in Sydney and the Sydney kids come to Mataranka. He was a fascinating guy, and it was so encouraging to hear about an Indigenous community  having some positive things happen, and that some of the kids are going on to further studies when they leave.

From there we headed out to the Elsey National Park and visited the cemetery, where the real life characters from the movie and story 'We of the Never Never' by Mrs Aeneas Gunn, resided. We were able to see where the original homestead was located, and where they lived back in 1901-1903. We headed to the Mataranka Homestead, and saw the replica Elsey Homestead made for the set of the movie 'We of the Never, Never'. I saw this movie in primary school, as a school excursion, and loved it. I have also read the book, so being able to be immersed in the land Jeannie and Aeneas Gunn lived in, was pretty special. We then explored the thermal springs at the homestead, which have been cleaned up for tourism, but we thought were not as nice as the Bitter Springs, we had been in yesterday. We opted to have lunch here and they started to show the movie 'We of the Never, Never' but the venue was too loud to hear it well, so we headed off. David and Brenda were exploring the area on their e-bikes, while Matt and I went out through the Elsey National Park, to Roper River. On the way, some wild pigs and piglets ran out across the road. Not quite bacon! At the river, it was still very full, and the 8.4km return walk out to the Mataranka Falls was closed due to this, and the increased chance of encountering a croc, both salt water and fresh water crocs can be found in this river. Matt and I were not keen to take any risks!!

We headed back to our caravan park and ventured back down to the Bitter Springs thermal waters and this time, I was not connected to my IV nutrition and was able to cruise down with the current in the inflated tyre inner tube, and keep my central line above the water. It was sensational to be able to be in the warm waters and look into the crystal clear water to look for turtles. Matt brought the snorkel and mask and was able to get a better view of the bottom and spied 3 turtles. It was a delightful and relaxing way to spend the afternoon with David and Brenda on pool noodles, and as we had gone a bit later, the place wasn't so crowded and noisy. The down side is getting out, and then running in the cool to get back to the beginning, to float down again in the warm waters - natures own theme park ride!

We headed back to the Clippers for a hot shower, dinner and the caravan park was showing the movie 'Guardians of the Galaxy' and Matt, David and Brenda went and enjoyed that, while I wrote this up.

Day 17 Mataranka

This morning we went for a walk and explored the Daly Waters town a bit further, spotting that Kevin the crocodile was in another position, and the free range donkeys like to knock over the garbage bins and help themselves. We did the obligatory pose of Bridget outside the Daly Waters pub, before heading to Mataranka.

 We stopped at the park in Mataranka to admire the roaming Brolgas. After checking in at the caravan park and catching up on washing, and Matt was trying again to fix the faulting water pump, and after I had a rest; we headed down the road to see the Bitter Springs. These springs are thermal and the water is very clear and a pale blue, with the occasional turtle visible; and are surrounded by tall palm trees. There is a current, so you step in where they have stairs, and you can then float down slowly on a pool noodle or inflated device, get off at the bottom, and walk back up to the top and repeat. Apparently you can spot the odd freshwater crocodile in the springs, but not today. I was connected up with my pump to IV nutrition, so couldn't go in today, but just sat and dangled my legs in the bath like temperature water and watched the many families and couples enjoying the springs. It was a relaxing afternoon. 

We headed back to the caravan park and finished off the washing and Matt continued to work on the misbehaving water pump switch. Many caravaners came and commented or quizzed Matt about the Clipper, as we are used to. You get a range of people like the time wasters, who are the know all but know nothing, or people just wanting to say how great they look or ask to take a photo. Sometimes, I go inside and shut the door and hide, but quite a few mornings this trip, I have been up early in my pyjamas and doing my morning IV care and noticed people taking photos. A taste of what celebrities experience, I guess. It was a nice to day to be slow and not much driving.