Day 63 Windjana Gorge

 It was nice to have a slow morning and take our time. We headed out on the gorge walk and the first section has this narrow gap to walk between the huge rock walls of the face of the gorge. The path was sandy, as it led us past the body of water. There was a good amount of teal green waters, with the odd freshwater crocodile sun baking on the other side. The path took us along the right hand side of the gorge, and if you looked up at the rock face next to us, you had to keep craning your neck until it almost snapped off, so your eyes could reach the top that was towering above. Corellas and Cockatoos flew usually in pairs through the gorge, the sound echoed throughout the gorge when they screeched. There were trees dotted along the bank and within the crevices of the cliff face, some trees had fallen down and we had to climb over them. The path split and we took the high road and walked along beside the cliff face, which had some cracks and crevices big enough for smaller people to explore. Going from the foot traffic on the dirt track, you could see lots of little people had done just that. Cockatoos were munching on seeds in trees, screeching when they flew away, and then the echo of their piercing calls could be heard from anyone there. The path led us back down to the water and the end of the trail. We opted to sit on a log beside the water for awhile and just enjoy. A tour group came through spent literally less than five minutes there before turning around and heading back. One old bloke took longer cause he dropped his walking stick and had to pick it up. . But if you stopped like we had, you could observe the suspected bubbles across the water, and watch the movements that would be a croc. You could enjoy the sheer cliff faces before you and how the shade and sun changed the colours, you could see that cattle had come to the water to drink the night before, as their hoof marks were in the mud beside the waters edge. You could see lots of algae and river weed growing at the water’s edge and wonder at what was causing the steady stream of bubbles from a few areas. You could see little Archer fish swimming in the shallows. We then walked along the waters edge and spied a large cane toad sitting in a hollow in the mud made from a cow hoof. If only we had a way of dispensing it. We found another spot further back towards the start of the walk to again just sit and observe. We watched a suspected croc log and once the sun had left the area it was sitting on the bank across the water from us, it ever so slowly and carefully slipped into the green waters, without a splash or wave. It swam almost completely under the water and unseen, until it reached another rock in the sun. It then quietly left the waters and hauled itself up not the bank. It stayed there until some guy decided to disobey the rules and jumped into the water for a swim. I think he was from far north QLD. so he didn’t care.   He made such a noise that it scared the croc back into the waters. It also prompted a comment from a lady walking the track “oh well looks like someone’s dead “

We headed back and watched smaller freshwater crocs sunning on the bank of the waters. This place was a place of beauty and majesty. We rested up for the rest of the day back at Bridget, doing chores and repairs. As I sit and write this blog for the day, the sun is starting to set. The cliff faces that we can see are lighting up. I can spy a little wallaby, venturing out from the golden grasses, it is trying not to be seen, but I can see it moving about, having a scratch, looking around maybe for its friends. We have had lots of action in the tree beside us, a great bowerbird hopping around the bottom, magpie lark getting confident and getting close to our chairs and being busy around us. A large bird is busy making a nest and coming and going with components for it. The coming and going of campers, choosing a spot and capably or not so, trying to reverse their vehicles, setting up campsites quickly or not. Younger kids giggles or singing songs, teens whinging and complaining and not being willing to help or participate. People hanging their solar panels vertically under their awning in the shade 🤔. You can observe a lot. It’s starting to get cooler, after another perfect day here in the Kimberley, time to cook dinner for Matt.

We’ve covered over 10,000km so far , about 1000 of that on the dirt with quite a bit more before we get home but we are 2/3rds through the trip now and starting to wonder how we will adjust back to everyday life, cause it doesn’t seem that appealing at this point. Much rather be doing this… but then I’d have to monetise all my videos and start talking like an influencer to fund the travel by making you guys watch ads  every time you click on something. That would wear thin pretty quickly  I can’t talk to myself that fluently  

Day 62 Bell Gorge

 This morning we packed up and parked Bridget up in the day area, and jumped on board the Discovery Clipper, and headed to Bell Gorge with Brenda and David.  Packing up Bridget for a dirt road involves closing all windows, putting the dowel rods in to try and keep the self-opening windows shut, putting on the kings size fitted sheet over all the bedding, making sure all drawers and cupboards are firmly shut. Ian  and Meredith had to take Trailways into Derby to repair their leaking fuel tank. Elise and Simon came along the walk with us and the 6 of us did the walk to the top of the waterfall at Bell Gorge. It was another beautiful waterfall, that had a series of ledges that the water flowed down into a large rock pool. There was an extra walk over the creek and up over the rocks and a clamber down the steep and slippery rocks to the rock pool, which we all managed. Brenda and Simon braved the water, though Simon opted for a quick swim, but Brenda the water baby, enjoyed exploring all the rock pools and swam around to the next pool to see where it went. We just sat basking in the warm sun on the rocks. We could see the other sightseers above at the top of the waterfall. Others also got brave and did the climb down to where we were and jumped into the green waters.

Eventually, Brenda hopped out and enjoyed the sunshine with us and we soon headed back up over the rocky cliff and over the creek crossing and returned back to the Discovery Clipper. David drove us back to Bridget and then we headed back down the terrible road, which had fortunately just been graded and was a much better drive back out to the Gibb River Road. The Gibb was still having sections where it was very corrugated and rough. We went through a few spectacular ranges, before stopping for lunch at Marchfly Glen. Fortunately, the location didn’t live up to its name. We continued down the Gibb, while David, Brenda, Elise and Simon headed off to Mt Hart Homestead for the night, and we kept going down the Gibb, until we reached the Windjana Gorge turn off. This road was equally as terrible as the road out to Bell Gorge had been, only difference was that it was wider and we had more options to drive around the torn up patches. I put my headphones in to use as ear protection from the noise. Everything that could, rattled and vibrated in Bridget. Finally, we made it to the campground and drove around until we found a spot. Then it was time to do the post dirt road procedure. This involves  removing the fitted sheet from the bedding and shaking out the dirt, removing the dowel rods and opening the windows to let in some cool air, dusting all the window frames, sweeping the floors, wiping down the kitchen benches, shower floor, tops of bed storage units and sometimes mopping the floor too. Most of our clothes, towels and sheets have an orange tinge and today Matt’s right side of his beard was distinctly orange.

After a break, Matt went to check out all the rattles and squeaks in the suspension, while I went and checked out the options for the walks of Windjana Gorge which we will do tomorrow. We then headed out for a stroll to see the sunset at the rocks. After only saying this morning that we hadn’t seen any kangaroos on the Gibb, we saw 6 today, including one we could hear in the bush in our sunset stroll. Just being Matt and I here, we took the chance to call Callum and see how he is going. So a quiet evening to reflect on our day and wrote up the blog for you all to keep up.

Day 61 Galvan Gorge

 Last night we both froze and needed an extra blanket and I was wearing my winter pyjamas. In the morning, we discovered that the windows had been left wide open from the afternoon before, which explains why it was so cold. A taste of what weather we have been missing out on I guess. We had a slow morning and Matt enjoyed his smashed avo, mushies eggs and toast for a  hot breakfast. We packed up and headed back down the road to fill up on water at the Mt Barnett Roadhouse, before we headed back onto the Gibb River Road.

Our first stop was not too far down the road, at Galvan Gorge. As luck would have it, two 4WD tour busses were there as we pulled up.  None of us were very quick to get out of the bus. When we did I was approached by an old fella who said to me “you guys have turned up in the only things worth taking a photo of on this tour so far” what a sad sorry man.  To quote buzz Light year , “ you are a strange little man, you have my pity” A half a kilometre walk into the gorge and we were greeted by the sight of another beautiful waterfall, red rock faces and a green waters in the  rock pool. There were a few Indigenous rock paintings as well. A lone boab tree sat at the top of the waterfall. For those who were keen to enjoy the water, which wasn’t as cold as yesterday’s apparently, there was a rope swing too. Matt and I were happy to enjoy watching it all, rather than get into the water.

From there we headed back onto the Gibb River Road. Going along this road, there have been a few things we have noticed, the different colour dirts have meant different types of rides on the road. Red dirt, which stains the nearby grasses, shrubs and trees red, is usually quite rocky, with a few lighter patches often being clay. Grey dirt is usually very corrugated with firm corrugations and gravel. Light colours is usually sandy. The cows are pretty good at ignoring the vehicles passing by, though we do slow in case they do decide to move onto the road. We haven’t seen any Roos along the Gibb River Road. As we drove along, a few rocky escarpments appeared for us to enjoy along the way. We knew from comments from others that the road wasn’t suitable for us to go and visit Adcock Gorge, so we gave it a miss and headed onto Iminitji. We then decided wouldn’t stay here but rather headed down the road to Bell Gorge. This was the worst road we have driven on. Very chewed up in places with some bypasses around some dug out parts. There were a few creek crossings and one I noticed contained a croc, which I told Matt about after we had safely got to the other side. This road led to a National Park, and despite paying all the fees to go there, that money isn’t going to maintaining the roads. There were a few more sections that really were dug out and still wet and boggy, one section looked like a 4WD club had made an obstacle course with deep ruts and holes that we had to crawl in and over, but the clipper handled it with ease, and a bit of clunking. 

The campground was lovely, and we were able to park up and had access to hot showers and flushing toilets. The guys went over all the suspension of the buses after the terrible road, but otherwise another relaxing day. When we pulled in, the friendly guy  farmer Greg that had been enjoying the fires after dinner at Manning Gorge was there, and he said we must be following him, he came and joined us again, with his partner after dinner, though tonight we didn’t have a campfire. We will do the Bell Gorge walk tomorrow.

Day 60 Manning Gorge

 After testing out the waters in Manning Creek yesterday, and knowing it was somewhat rather chilly, we opted to do the walk a bit later in the morning, in a vain attempt to hope the water would be warmer. The group ventured to Manning Creek, and there were blue plastic 100L drums that had been cut in half, that we could use to ferry across the water your shoes and backpacks. One of the other people in the queue for the drums, kindly swam to the other side to bring them across. We loaded our gear in the drums and I climbed into my blown up tyre inner tube, and we all took deep breaths as we stepped into the freezing waters, and Matt pushed the inner tube with me in the middle, trying to stay dry, to keep my central venous line from being submerged. Poor Matt, it wasn’t hard while the water was shallow enough for him to wade in, but then there was a sudden drop off and it became very deep,  and he had to paddle and push me. But we all made it across the creek, safely to the other side. We dried off and Matt went and hid the inner tube, for the return trip. We headed along the 5km return track to Manning Gorge. We clambered up rocky sections, where there were several stacks of rocks that you could add to as you walked past, through sections of tall grasses, with a few holly grevillea, wattle, and gum trees. When we were high enough, if you looked behind, you could see a rocky escarpment in the distance. There was no evidence of any gorge if you looked in the direction we were heading, it was well hidden. Eventually the path involved a lot more rock and we were going up and down small rocky hills and valleys, until we were  near the gorge and then it was all downhill, slowly, slowly, with big steps over the rocks. As we entered the gorge, we had bigger rocks to climb down, we passed some faded Indigenous rock art, and then finally reached the rocks beside the water. They were dark brown and black and very smooth, and quite slippery. There was a waterfall, and large deep, rock pools with deep green, clear waters, a sandy beach and smaller cascades heading down the gorge. There were several groups of people sitting on the rocks in the middle, soaking up the sunshine and the beautiful waterfall, and the relatively short rocky gorge cliffs around us. Kids were jumping in from a rock ledge, people were sitting under the waterfall, others floated about in the water with pool noodles. If we thought the water in Manning creek was cold, then this water was much cooler again, but Matt and our friends braved it, and went in for a swim. I enjoyed just looking our for floating logs in the lower pool, and just again enjoyed absorbing in the atmosphere and surroundings. Matt was more than happy to step out of the water and join our mate Ian and myself and sit on the rock in the sun. Matt’s favourite red dragonfly was flittering about, so he was able to get a good photo this time, as it seemed to not be fearful of him at all, and let him even touch its wings. Matt had his lunch and we took our selfie, before heading back. 

We had to climb up the rocks we had climbed down, and through all the rocky hills and valleys. It doesn’t take much to make me bruise, so my shins are all colours of the rainbow from all the little knocks and bumps against the rocks. It wasn’t too hot and the walk was quite pleasant, but my energy was waning, so I was glad when we did reach Manning Creek, for our return trip across. Matt retrieved the hidden inner tube, and some people also about to cross, were jealous of me, but we explained it was to keep a medical device dry. People are just usually polite and nod blankly, and don’t ask anything further. I was able to paddle backwards until I bumped into the big rock in the middle, and Matt then turned me around and pushed me along until we reached the other side. I climbed out and waited with our gear, while he paddled back to the other side with the blue plastic drum for the people on the other side, but luckily someone had met him half way and took them from there.

We returned to Bridget for a welcome ice block and afternoon rest. Matt meanwhile worked on troubleshooting an electrical charging issue in Ian’s Trailways. Another relaxed afternoon after our big walk, and dinner together around the fire. Some people we had met today and yesterday joined us for the conversation after dinner around the fire. A lovely evening spent hearing their stories and you discover things like the seven degrees of separation, and one of them had worked with one of my cousins in Tamworth Base Hospital. We have met some interesting people and heard some great stories on this trip.

Day 59 Gibb River, Mt Barnett

 We got to enjoy a slower morning and were able to check out the camp site in daylight, which was beside the Gibb River itself. The river had a lot of beach beside it and was more of a clear, small stream, smaller than some of the other rivers we have encountered. Wattle was quite prolific beside the river, and the wattle flowers were quite robust and floated in the water, downstream

We packed up and headed back onto the Gibb River Road. We encountered some pretty rough patches and corrugations. The best way to drive on the corrugations was to find the sweet spot speed where the tyres just skimmed across the top and you didn’t feel every individual bump. For us it was between 50-60km/hr. But if you had to slow down for a dip or floodway, it was pretty loud and bouncy. The scenery again kept changing and became quite flat with grasses and a few cattle, taller gum trees, and then after we passed the turn off to Mt Elizabeth Station, we got to enjoy some rocky escarpments again. It wasn’t a long drive, but took us 2 hours to do about 100km to the Mt Barnett Roadhouse. We filled up on fuel and once spied by the staff, we were asked if they could take a photo of us in front of their roadhouse while we were filling up. We then headed to the camp ground ready to do the Manning Gorge walk tomorrow. 

After setting up and having lunch, Matt and the gang went to explore and have a swim in Manning Creek, which we will have to cross tomorrow to do the walk. The creek has a sandy bottom, and is very deep but clean and clear. No crocs sighted, but they can appear there. Matt returned and then took me down to the sandy beach and we sat and enjoyed the beauty around us, kids nearby having fun on a rope swing and jumping into the waters, lots of squeals, it’s great to see families out and about enjoying the Kimberley. I could only spy little fish swimming around, the noise and action probably scaring away the bigger fish. The area is very popular and the campground is quite full. Matt and I returned to the creek at sunset but there wasn’t any red rocky range to light up, so not too special. The moon soon appeared, again with a banana smile for us. We came together to enjoy dinner around the fire, and a nearby camper came and joined us for a chat. A better day for Ian and Meredith in Trailways, as the repairs seem to be holding on, despite the rough road today. 

Mt Barnett offers electric vehicle charging too. No one is using it though

Day 58 Ellenbrae Station and the unscheduled roadside stop

 One thing about this trip, is that no two days are the same; and just like the scenery and views changing  every time you turn the corner, today proved that you never know what each day will bring on this big adventure. We headed off early from Home Valley Station, each Clipper leaving as they were ready in the morning. The Gibb River road started out with amazing views of the Cockburn Ranges and other mountainous terrain, before levelling out with pretty ordinary plains of long, golden spinifex grasses, and gum trees, with the odd boab tree or grevillea and Turkey bush in between. The road had the occasional sealed asphalt stretches, usually on the hills. These provided a momentary reprieve for the ears from the rattling of every part of the Clipper. I had my earphones in and listened to Coldplay, to try and reduce the noise, Matt was wondering why I was ignoring him… I just couldn’t hear him above my music and the rattles from every part of Bridget vibrating lol!  I would ask a question , nothing. Just her drumming on her lap.  I thought she was nervous and having a fit of some sort.  Nup just Coldplay. We travelled about 100km before arriving at the next station of Ellenbrae, another cattle station established in the 1960’s. This station was famous for its scones, jam and cream, so we had to try them out of course. So we had a lovely morning tea here. And two coffees just because… I’m going to need it. 

We headed back onto the road, but the road seemed to have become more corrugated and rougher in patches. The corrugations to look at, reminded me of the frozen Vienetta ice cream dessert, just a lot less pleasant! And grittier in your teeth, as I was to learn later.. We were leading on this stretch, and we get message on the CB from Ian ‘I have to pull over, something’s wrong’. We kept going for a minute before Matt asked Ian “can it be driven” and the next message from Ian in the Trailways Clipper was ‘no, not driveable’. 😔. So Matt reversed 300metres back to where Ian had pulled up, and on immediate inspection, the rear left wheels were not where they should be, they were hard up against the rear of the wheel arch, the front spring mount of the rear leaf springs had broken. At 77 years of age, this Clipper part had decided it was too old for the bumpy road and snapped, dislodging the rear spring and moving the diff out of alignment as well. When we used to have the old Scenicruiser bus, it would break down so regularly that the kids named these times as ‘unscheduled roadside stops’. So here we were on the Gibb River Road, having an unscheduled roadside stop!

I should mention at this point that this is a catastrophic mechanical  failure. Two pieces of 8mm thick steel had snapped clean off the frame of the bus. The primary mounting point for the rear axle.  

Matt gave me the unused triangle warning sign, it was still clean and not at all dusty! and I walked down the hill to the crest and placed the triangle to warn oncoming traffic of a hazard ahead. By the time I returned, David and Brenda in the Discovery Clipper, with Elise and Simon in the car arrived. Matt was already pulling tools out and soon the 3 Clipper drivers were in their overalls and assessing the damage and had the Clipper up on the jacks and the wheels were off, and they made a plan of attack. We were making plans up as we went with this one. Brenda and I sat in the shade of the Clippers and would reassure anyone who slowed or stopped to see if we needed help, that all was going to be ok. Meanwhile Elise and Simon continued on down the road to where we had planned to camp for the night, to try and reserve a place for us all.

The broken parts were removed but the 77 year old nuts and bolts proved impossible to undo. Trailways is an American Clipper, and so some things are quite different to the Australian built Clippers, but the guys had been organised prior to the trip and made sure a welder, angle grinder and many other spare bolts and nuts and many other tools were brought for the ‘just in case’. Today would be the ‘just in case’ scenario. They then spent the next 6 hours under the bus. I’ll let Matt give you all the technical details and the work it involved. The ladies made sure the fellas stayed hydrated and fed. It was fortunately not a hot day with a nice breeze, and the sun was on the other side of the bus, so not directly on the side being worked on. 

Technical details 

The Front spring mount is a U shaped angled bracket that bolts to the chassis of the bus with 5 large high tensile bolts to hold the leaf spring to the chassis. This aligns the differential and transfers the push from the wheels into the body of the bus. Without this the wheels and differential just want to exit the vehicle in which ever direction they see fit at the time. The spring fits up in between two vertical 8mm thick steel plates and a pin passes though them, and the eye on the front of the leaf spring, a bit like this

 but imagine it broken off just below the two bolts at the top  on each side  

So you end up with these , 

Those triangle edges at the top should be part of the frame. And one of them had been cracked for a while as it was not a fresh break for half of it.  When the rest of the crack let go,  the other side said ‘ I can’t do this on my own’ and bailed out as well. 

When I first saw this I thought the metal was cast steel which can’t be successfully welded, and I was imagining having to go to Kununurra again to get something fabricated , but after getting it apart and shining it up with the angle grinder David said “I reckon we can weld that” . So we had to unbolt what was left of the mount on the frame so we could reattach the two vagrant absconding delinquent mounts to their rightful place. 

This proved difficult. The bolts were put on 77 years ago. The bolt heads didn’t like being told to move. They stripped off or just plain refused.  Enter our favourite tool.  Angle grinder.  Actually we had to rat though our collective bolt and nut collection to see if we had suitable replacements before hacking into it and rendering the existing bolts useless. Turns out that I had two high tensile bolts the right size and David had the other three. I put them in the bus 6 years ago.  So off it came with angle grinder and drills until we had the remaining third piece of the Meccano puzzle we now had to weld together.  I had a go at the welding at first but struggled to get it clean, so David had a go and did a great job ( yes we carry generators and inverters to run 240v tools ) so about 4 hours into it we started bolting it all back in.  That went in fine but the spring was way out of alignment as the diff was twisted slightly sideways, so we had to hitch a snatch strap to the diff and connect it to David’s bus and pull it forward again until it lined up with the newly repaired mount. Then we could bolt it all together again and go sightseeing. I watched the sunset from under the bus. Looked nice.  But then it got dark. So we had to look for all the tools and sockets we had strewn around (we all have the same work methodology, it’s somewhere here, I had it a second ago.)

By the time it was all back together we had all emptied the contents of most of our toolboxes all over the side of the road.  So we had a bit of a clean up to do. 

Things to note during this. We were all wearing overalls.  We all ate the Gibb river road. David had his best safety welding thongs on. Our wives told us of the lack of personal protective equipment. We did it anyway, and Darrell booth and Matt Thane were ringing in my ears “failure is not an option… work the problem” 

There is now a 5m stretch of the Gibb river road that is levelled out with no corrugations due to “three old Cogs” (as we’ve been affectionately referred to as) rolling around in the dirt for 6 hours 

Good news is the welds held and we made the next 30k of torturing corrugations to the nights campsite. 

Tech talk over…

By the time the fellas had finished, the sun had set and the light was disappearing fast. We had to madly gather up all the tools and equipment removed from the 3 Clippers and pack them up while we could still see, but we soon needed torches. Ian then took Trailways for a test drive and the newly repaired and welded mount seemed to hold. We then headed down the road to the campsite, another 30km away. The corrugations got worse with some pretty bad holes as well. But the new repair seemed to be good, and we were able to find the camp site turn off in the dark, and Elise and Simon had a fire ready and had managed to reserve enough space for the 3 Clippers to fit in. We all made easy dinners, and sat around the campfire to debrief for the day. The moon made an appearance and it looked like a smile. What a day, and feeling blessed that we were travelling together and able help Ian out.