Day 55 Pentecost River

 We got up early and headed off from El Questro, but not before stopping back at Zebedee Springs for a quick warm soak for everyone. I opted to stay out, and instead just observed and took photos of the plentiful palms that surrounded the water. But soon we were back on the Gibb River Road, and again spoiled for views as we drove down the road. We didn’t get far before we reached the destination, the Pentecost River, just beside the crossing. This is where the bitumen ends, and the dirt starts on the Gibb. Being free, and beside the river, getting a spot can be difficult but being quite early in the morning, we managed to find a spot big enough to fit the 3 Clippers end to end, and a smaller spot for Simon and Elise’s car.

It was nice to sit by the river and watch the birds flittering from branch to branch. It soon warmed up and we set up some shade. We collected some fire wood and just chilled for the hot part of the day. Matt and I went for a walk back to the road and sat for a while watching the various vehicles crossing the river. A couple of road train trucks ferrying some demountable buildings from a mine camp, came through. in the video you may hear a smoke alarm going off in the first trucks load, due to the dust from the road. the last truck also had a broken rear axle on the last trailer and the wheel was flopping about backwards and forwards, i mentioned it to mine workers travelling with the trucks, and they just fobbed it off, "yeah we are breaking them a lot, the other day we only got 5km" Observing the various techniques and vehicles provided some entertainment. We headed back to camp and enjoyed another great sunset on the water and as Matt and I had hiked up the hill a bit, we were able to enjoy the amazing colours appearing along the rocky escarpment of the Cockburn Ranges behind us. Matt was able to hopefully capture the beauty in photos for you. The fire was lit, so the coals could be made for people to cook some dinner with.  Fires are always mesmerising to watch, as the flames dance about. I cooked some corn and a potato in the coals for Matt, while we BBQed some herbed chicken and he had salad too. He doesn’t eat too badly or starve in any way. I again enjoyed sitting reclined and looking up at the stars, listening to the song of the crickets. We played a game called ‘Blank Slate’, which was fun. My pump was being overly sensitive and alarming regularly because of tiny bubbles in the fluid. Grrr. Another beautiful evening otherwise.

pentecost river crossing.

on dusk a bush fire up the road looked pretty cool

 

Day 54 Amalia Gorge

 We headed off early this morning, trying to beat the heat of the day to do the Amalia Gorge walk, which was about 3.5km grade 4/5, so a difficult walk. It was just Matt and I together. The walk started out through a rocky creek bed, with wobbly rocks on each step. After a small creek crossing, the rocks started to get bigger, some jutting upwards and on their side, some were wobbly but you didn’t know that until you stepped on them, others were slippery because the slightest bit of sand or dirt made them slippery, otherwise were well polished and slippery or wet, rocks also were slippery. Every step involved a decision and concentration, and again you had to remind yourself to stop and look up to enjoy the changing scenery that we were surrounded by. More orange red rocky cliff faces and hills covered in spinifex grass, trees and scattered rock, the occasional pool of water, some with little trickles of water and others babbling away as the water moved downstream. As we headed further down the track, the walk got harder with some clambering over rocks and trying to pick the best route. Eventually we reached the half way Rockpool, with water almost the colour of Bridget, a shade of teal. The water was deep and very clear, and you could see the fish swimming around. We stopped here for awhile to enjoy the beauty and watch the fish.

After a rest, we continued further down, where the track involved some serious clambering over rocks, and at one point, the angled rock overhung the path and the Rockpool was down below, and there was a chain to hang on to, to give you something to hold onto, as you pulled yourself around this point. The next hard bit involved climbing up and finding grip points on the slippery rock as you climbed up and around. It was kind of like the rock climbing walls you can do. without the safety rope and foam mats It was challenging, fun and scary all at once. Matt was very quick but I took my time, and sometimes I would slide down on my bottom, just because it was easier. We finally reached the end and there was another large rock pool with a waterfall, it was shaded and so the water was freezing but there were people that were brave (senseless) and had a swim. The rocky cliffs again partially surrounded the rock pool. We sat there for a while and just immersed ourselves again in the moment. 

We had to eventually leave,mainly cause our bums had gone numb from sitting on a rock for 40 mins, and head back, before it got too hot in the sun to walk. The return trip, felt easier, as we knew where to go and what to expect. I was very proud of me for my achievements. It was a great morning. We returned to El Questro to cool down and relax for the afternoon. It was nice to plug into power and put the air con on and chill and we played scrabble.  As I write this, the sun is setting behind me and I have the perfect view out Bridget’s kitchen window. Tonight we are having dinner at the restaurant here at El Questro, so that will be nice for Matt to enjoy, maybe some local Barramundi. Not sure if we will encounter the cattle again, from last night, when we head over to the restaurant. 

 

Day 53 Zebedee Springs

 Today was a very relaxed day of rest. We headed out from El Questro in the Trailways Clipper, through the deep river crossing and down the road to Zebedee Springs. The springs are thermal and a series of rockpools that are warm and clear but not too deep.  about waist deep on an average height human.  Groups of people are soaking as you climb up towards the waterfall in the distance. As you look up, you see the palm fronds high above our heads, and the shaded and muted orange cliff face. Laughter, chatter, squeals from children, and a very relaxed mood amongst all those soaking in the warm water, about 28-32 degrees apparently. Even I was able to sit and soak in the water, though I did find the rocks too slippery to stand on and climb over, so you sort of had to float around to the spot we found for the eight of us. Brenda and David's daughter Elise and partner Simon joined us late yesterday for this part of the trip. They are in a 4WD with a rooftop camper. They live and work in Darwin, so haven't travelled as far.

After our morning soak, we headed back to El Questro to relax and Matt did a bit of maintenance on the Clipper. We strolled around the El Questro site and walked through the art gallery, where the artist paints various versions of boab trees. There were a few rock pools of their own for guests to soak in (normal cold river temperatures), near the river as well. The helipad is fairly busy with scenic flights coming and going often, there was also horse trail rides for those inclined. We headed back to Bridget and have just rested up for the afternoon, as tomorrow we plan on an early start to do another gorge walk, before it gets too hot. We are making sure each day is different and there is rest happening.

I spent the afternoon also fending off bewildered 4WD owners who can’t work out how we got the busses in here , and German  tourists who can’t believe something that old can still drive let alone out be out here   

Matt and I ventured out to another river crossing and watched various types of 4WD vehicles drive across the river. At one point, a dingo was on the other side and we watched it get close to the waters edge, and I was wondering if it would swim across, but alas another car came along and spoiled that, and the dingo quickly disappeared into the bush. We returned to the campground to enjoy the sunset and prepare dinner. We sat with the group for dinner, and from the dark bushes behind us, there was a lot of rustling and crunching. Our neighbours shone a torch and there in the bushes were some cows and bulls, and they looked back towards us as if to say ‘what? What are you looking at? Nothing to see here!’ They seemed to be heading towards the campground, and about half an hour later, I spied their silhouette against the lights from the campground and soon there was crunching and rustling as they returned into the bushes from whence they had appeared from.

Day 52 Emma Gorge

 We backtracked from Wyndham to the Gibb River Road and turned onto the infamous road and immediately pulled over to the information boards on road access. A tourist bus had just unloaded its passengers at that point, and no sooner had the Clippers pulled in, then they were immediately surrounded by these tourists asking lots of questions and wanting to take photographs and sometimes people do ask if they can look inside. Matt stepped out into the crowd of paparazzi, while I retreated to the back of the bus, to be out of view of all the photos being taken. 

Finally the tourist bus left and it was safe for me to come out and enjoy the moment. We then headed off down the first part of the road, which is still asphalt, and not far down, we turned off to Emma Gorge. Again, there are views of the Cockburn ranges and the like everywhere you look, the scenery is amazing. The carpark was already crowded but we managed to find a space big enough to park the 3 Clippers. We got info about the walk and headed down the 3.2km return walk. It was graded 4 and difficult and proved as much. There were loose rocks, creek crossings, slippery smooth rocks, scrambles over rocks and tree roots, people coming the other way or wanting to overtake you. Grateful for having waterproof hiking boots, we coped ok. We saw a golden tree snake along the way, a tiny snake that was braving the crowds to have a drink. You had to remind yourself to look up and admire and enjoy the orange and red rocky cliff faces, as you were concentrating so much on not tripping over the rocks.We passed clear rock pools and one was deep which made the water a turquoise colour, but we had been requested not to swim in that. A final rock scramble to reach the end, we had already sensed we were close, as the noise from the gorge pool was amplified by the shape of the pool and the noise carried down the gorge. We could feel the air cool as we reached the end and the circular shape of the rock pool, with mossy green cliff faces and vines creeping over the ledges, a small amount of water flowed down the waterfall, and people of all ages were either in the water or sitting by it. You could tell it was cold, by the body language of a group of men standing in the water, all with arms crossed and shoulders up near their ears. Big boofy blokes with tattoos, it was like “we have to stand in this water to say we’ve done it , tick it off the list, pretend it’s not freezing…” Brenda braved it and stood in it for a few minutes before retreating. We sat and enjoyed the views and took it all in. Helicopters occasionally flew over us, the sound of mirth and laughter as kids clambered over the rocks to jump in, older folk, families, couples and the like, all here enjoying the majesty and beauty around us. The landscape, not the people.  There were some very unmagestic and less beautiful blokes in the water. Just saying …no crocs but plenty of beached whales. We rested up and cooled down, before feeling reenergised to turn around and leave the cool, and face the return trip in the now warmer time of day. The return trip seemed easier as we knew what to expect, but the sun was hotter and had a sting to it, but we made it in good time, as David set a cracking pace. We returned to the carpark, and me feeling quite light headed and not so good, but it was time for me to start my IV fluids, which I was more than ready for. We left the now even busier carpark and headed back onto the Gibb, the road undulating up and down as we regularly crossed creek crossings or would be crossings. We took the turn off onto the El Questro Station, and found the dirt road to be the best we have been on so far. Many creek crossings for Matt to slow down and approach carefully, and drive through the water and rocky creek beds. The last crossing was the longest and deepest, with the water rushing in to the first step of the doorway. The underside of Bridget getting a wash down, with many more to come.

We checked in at El Questro, and found our camp site and settled in for the afternoon. I crashed and had a nap while Matt chilled and answered all the questions of those who walked on by and stopped to ask them.  The whirr of a few generators now fill the air, as people return to their caravans, after a day out. A restful night as we work out what to do tomorrow.

Emma gorge 

The stripes are water falling from above

Day 51 Wyndham

Not a big day today, we did do a short walk to see some Indigenous rock art near The Digger's Rest Station, and anyone watching us would have been bewildered, as we tried to keep moving to avoid being eaten alive by the mozzies at this place. The Cockburn range was always in the distance wherever you looked. The salt crystals of the tidal flood plains sparkled like diamonds in the sun, as we drove past; spying Jabiru and Brolga's in the distance. We arrived at Wyndham and explored the port, local museum and went up a winding road to reach the lookout over 5 rivers. The tide was out, so flat sandy plains and swampy areas was all we saw, with the ranges in the background.

We headed to the local caravan park and checked in and I caught up with laundry, before we hit the Gibb River Road tomorrow. There is a huge boab tree here. they reckon is over 2000 years old, and approx 25m tall and 20m round. A quiet night in really.