Day 70 Gantheaume Point and Sunset Camel Ride

This morning we took Bridget out to give her a wash. It wasn’t easy manoeuvring the equipment over her roof at the car wash, but we soon got her much cleaner and shiny again. So now she looks loved again. We then headed out altogether in Trailways to Gantheaume Point, where there are dinosaur footprints. They are best seen at low tide, and unfortunately it wasn’t low tide for us, but we still enjoyed clambering around the rocks and enjoying the view out to sea. We could see purple coloured jellyfish floating around the teal coloured waters. There was pretty impressive rock formations and Matt did have fun climbing over rocks and taking photos. The lighthouse was also at this point, but wasn’t so much a house as it was a tall metal frame with a flashing light on the top. There was even an Osprey nest in the framework. It was another day of perfect weather and we enjoyed being out in it. We then checked out the ramp where you can drive onto the beach, to make sure we can get a Clipper down it for a photoshoot later in the week.

We returned to the caravan park, and Matt began working on the front suspension and repairing parts that needed welding and make sure everything was all tight and good. Spring mounting bushing needed welding back onto the spring, as it was clunking side to side which was getting annoying. Meanwhile, I was doing some research work, reading through a proposal for a grant application. 

After lunch, it was David’s turn to check his brakes and suspension and he found a broken part that meant his brakes wouldn’t work, the s-cam brake booster mount broke off the brake drum back plate, so he then found a guy that would repair the part for him. Just so happened that at the workshop that he found to repair it for him, worked a man that David used to drive to and from school in Coonabarabran when he was the school bus driver years ago.   The joys of having an old vehicle. He was able to get the part repaired on the spot. Wouldn’t get that sort of service in Sydney. After that was sorted, we all headed back out in Trailways to Cable Beach, and walked out to where we would be riding camels at sunset. We checked in and then got to enjoy the warm shallow waters of the beach and explore the rock pools, while we waited for our turn.

We didn’t have too long to wait and then it was our turn to step up onto a platform on the back of a Ute and onto the camel. Matt and I climbed on board a camel named ‘Amos’. Amos was one of the bigger camels in the line up and he apparently is often grumpy and doesn’t like being touched (most of the camels are rescue camels, so some had issues).  Before long, we were under way and being led down the beach. We were in the middle of the 13 camel line up. The sun was beginning to get low in the sky, and the shadows were growing longer. The staff offered to take photos for us and were very friendly and chatting along the way. Amos the camel was getting a bit impatient and started getting out of line and getting further ahead next to our mate Ian’s legs, as Ian was on the camel in front of us. But the tethering on Amos, meant he couldn’t get much further ahead, and once we neared the end, he got back in line. The clouds in the sky meant we were being spoiled with an amazing coloured sunset. Our ride came to an end, and only moments after we had come to a stop, like on cue, most of the camels proceeded to empty their bladders. It was quite funny, as it was seemed so co-ordinated between them all. While we were waiting for our turn to disembark, we sat and watched the sun set. The beach had crowds enjoying the sunset too. We climbed off Amos the camel and fed him a couple of carrots, which he seemed to really enjoy. Once we were all off the camels, we headed back down the beach, still enjoying the colours in the sky. There was a crowd near the surf club at the beach, and it seemed like all the backpackers from France and South America were out playing beach volleyball and partying on the beach as the sun set. We tried to linger to enjoy the sky as the colours continued to change and light up the sky, but alas it was the final game for the State of Origin, and Ian was keen to get back to watch. We got back in time for him to watch the game, and that’s all I am going to say about that. It’s not hard to see why Broome is a popular destination at this time of year. Again, it’s hard to believe it is Winter. Another great day.

Day 69 Dampier Peninsula

 This morning Matt and I were able to head off and drive in Bridget. The new alternator is working a treat. We left early from Broome and headed out to the Dampier Peninsula. Our first stop was Beagle Bay, where there is an Indigenous Community. Within this community, is an historic Catholic Church, famous for the intricate mother of pearl inlays and designs that ornately decorate various parts of the church. We read about the history of the church and community and the area. It was unique and beautiful and the history was quite fascinating. Some monks from France came out and started the church in the late 1800’s and they learned the local language and then spoke it and translated it, to minister to the indigenous community. They ran a school and tried to help them run a pearl farm, amongst other endeavours, but this failed for them, the women were the main decorators of the mother of pearl in the church. The church is still in use today and has survived many cyclones, though the church bell tower has been restored after falling down in a cyclone, in the early 2000’s. 

From there we continued up the road and to Cygnet Bay. This was a pearl farm, with a tourist hub comprising of a cafe, pearl gallery, caravan park, poorly positioned infinity pool, and many tours left from the beach. There were options for tours of the pearl farm too. We just headed down to the beach and enjoyed the white sand, and ‘azure’ waters ( I stand corrected by my previous description of the water colour at Cable Beach, the water isn’t turquoise or aqua, the locals say it is ‘azure’ blue). The sand was a bit like sinking sand, as you would sink in the wet sand if you stood in one place too long. We found a lookout, so we could see above all the mangrove trees growing by the waters edge. It was a lovely place to enjoy the water.

The road up to cygnet bay was pretty straight. 

We headed onto the next Indigenous community of Ardyaloon. We had hoped to drive through to check out the water and views here, but you had to pay for a permit, and as we had already paid for one at Beagle Bay to see the church, we opted not to here. We turned around and had lunch just out of the community and headed back to Broome. (We had hoped to drive out to Cape Leveque but sadly the road has been closed as they haven’t been able to maintain the area and provide adequate facilities for tourists, which is a shame, as the photos on the net make it look like a spectacular place to see).

Tonight was Elise and Simon’s last night, so we had dinner out at the golf club. The golf club is on the only hill in Broome and has 360 degree views. We got to enjoy the sunset on one side and the darkened night sky on the other, that overlooked the water and the port. We had dinner together to celebrate Brenda’s upcoming birthday. It was a lovely night with wonderful views. We returned to the caravan park  for a dark chocolate mud cake dessert that I had made for Brenda.

Day 68 Broome 3

 This morning we headed into the shops to Australia Post, hoping to collect the alternator. We had been asking the auto electrician that we bought it through, for a tracking number. From the brief few searches by the staff member, they couldn’t find anything. They told us that they don’t do any deliveries in Broome and unless we got the tracking, they couldn’t help us. So we left disappointed and frustrated. Matt called the auto electrician again and asked again for tracking or connote, as we really didn’t know if it had been sent by a courier or through Australia Post. The auto electrician had to contact the manufacturer of the alternator, as they had been the ones who sent it to us. But they were not getting back to the auto electrician. So all we could do was wait to hear. We returned to the caravan park and Matt tidied up the boot and I just tried to do some crosswords and puzzles. I called Broome hospital pharmacy and spoke with my contact and my TPN was all there and waiting for me. I explained the situation about our broken down bus, and she said she would bring it out to me. So a little ray of sunshine for our day. The pharmacist came shortly later with the 7 boxes of my nutrition and medications, delivered straight into Bridgets fridge. ❤️ 

We finally heard back after 2pm that it had been sent by Team Global Express and the tracking said it had been rejected by the caravan park office back in June, and had been taken back to the depot (it was disappointing that despite organising with the caravan park staff for the parcel to be sent there, only for this to happen). So Matt then madly called the depot and fortunately someone answered and they did still have the parcel, but they close at 2pm and it was now 2.15pm. We explained the need to get the parcel and Ian promptly took us over and we were able to get the alternator, thanks to the staff who were willing to stay back that bit longer to help us.

So happy to report that the alternator is now in Bridget and working, and we were able to find some belts that will fit for now. Many thanks to Ian, who had already driven around and found a company that sold a whole lot of auto parts, including the belts, as he had needed one for Trailways. Phew! Such a relief to have Bridget drivable again. Just to add to the day, when preparing my TPN fluids bag, that you roll to open up the chambers to mix the different components, the bag burst and sticky TPN fluid went everywhere. 😩. Not what we needed today.We had a group dinner together,  to make plans for the next few days. Sorry no photos for today, we were too busy sweeping Broome. Thanks to anyone who prayed for the situation.

Day 67 Broome 2

 This morning we headed out in Trailways and went to Broome Uniting Church and joined the congregation for the morning service. The church was built back in the late 1920’s and early ‘30’s and had sliding doors to open up the building and verandahs for better air flow and to increase the space as well. It was a small congregation but friendly and they happened to show a recorded sermon from a minister near Ian and Meredith’s region and whom they knew. They service also reflected on it being NAIDOC week. 

After a cuppa after the service, we headed to the local markets and checked out all the stalls and what was there to buy. From there we headed into Chinatown, the shopping precinct and explored the shops and area. We also found the ice cream shop and can report it was very good. One observation is that here in Broome, there are no pedestrian crossings at all. Pedestrians must give way to the traffic, and we found that you could be left waiting for awhile before there were safe gaps to cross; but you could tell the drivers from interstate, as they would stop and let you cross. I don’t quite understand how this rule makes it safe for pedestrians.

We headed back to Trailways and Ian played tour guide as he drove us around town and we found some lookouts onto the coastal areas. The water is turquoise and clean and clear, with white sandy beaches. It is also very tidal and the tide was out. We popped over to the famous Cable Beach and checked out the views and it was very busy and popular, especially being the weekend. I was feeling quite hot as well, and it was taking its toll on me. It’s hard to believe that it’s actually Winter. We headed back to the Clipper and returned back to the caravan park, and I was able to cool down in the air conditioning and connect up early and give myself extra fluids to help my body cope with getting overheated. Part of my condition is that I do have trouble controlling my body temperature and I am at risk of over heating, which is what was starting to happen to me today. Even though I was drinking water and wearing a hat and light clothes, my body had other plans, you just can’t pick it, as I have been fine on other days like doing some of our long walks. I soon felt better and was able to enjoy the rest of the day. We just relaxed and chatted and made some plans for tomorrow. First thing will be to head to Australia Post and hopefully collect the new alternator. Matt pulled apart more components from the old alternator, and found more bits were well and truly falling apart and worn out and he is now very reluctant to rebuild this one.

For those of you that like seeing parts that were still working but shouldn’t have been right up until things stopped spinning in the alternator …

That’s supposed to be a solid post to bolt a wire to. Can’t anymore. 

These should be rectangular don’t know how they still worked.  

You shouldn’t be able to see through this

Day 66 Broome 1

 We packed up and left Birdwood Downs Station. Brenda held the gate open and then all of a sudden there was this mass exodus of caravans and everyone just drove on through, no regard for Brenda, who was standing there holding the gate open for them all. Eventually, the stream ended and we could all drive off to the end of the Gibb River Road sign for an official photo of us all together at the end of the road. We headed off to Broome, which was a little over 200km away. We drove through flat country with no real ranges or gorges to speak of. There were lots of bridges over rivers with good amounts of water still in them. Some of these bridges were single lanes, and it was clear at one of them, that some people have no idea about the road rules in these situations. We were behind Trailways and watched as they were on the bridge first and this car coming the other way started on to the bridge coming the other way, even though Trailways was already on the bridge.They then started flashing their lights at Ian, and kept coming further into the bridge and basically forced Ian to reverse back half the bridge. Luckily we had waited before getting onto the bridge and hadn’t also entered the bridge and then it would have been 2 vehicles that would have had to reverse. Most people know that in these situations, not only do you give way to the vehicle first on the single lane, but you also give bigger vehicles the right of way. Clearly this person had no idea, and just adds to the many crazy and risky driving we have seen people do on this trip.

We all managed to get to Broome safely, and Matt and I headed to Coles to stock up on fresh food. We then drove to the caravan park to check in. We checked in and then asked if the parcel had arrived for us containing the new alternator. Unfortunately, it had not arrived. The person I had spoken to about this had not told anyone else (like they said they would do) or written our names down to collect the parcel if it was left at the post office, as it had the caravan park address on it. 😔. So we have to wait until Monday and hope it is at the post office. Just as we then started the engine to drive to our spot, the smaller old alternator that Matt had re-installed back in Adelaide River, as a stop gap until we made it here to Broome; started squealing and by the time we parked up and Matt opened the bonnet, it was smoking.😬. The heat had started to melt the edges of the belts too. When the alternator had cooled down and Matt could pull it out and open it up, he found the bearings had internally collapsed and seized. 😢. It literally got us to the caravan park as it needed to, then locked up solid.  I had put a new one in before we left as I was a little sus about the  Chinese bearings.  ( it’s a no name Chinese alternator that came with the engine. And the only things I’ve had problems with on this engine has been the bits with wires in them ) Suspicions confirmed. I pulled the alternator apart and bits of bearing started to fall out. There are a couple of bearing places in Broome so I might be able to get a replacement if all goes to hell with the warranty replacement that is supposed to be here in Broome somewhere if we can find it. Feeling grateful that it got us to our destination and didn’t fall apart before then or on the Gibb River Road. Also grateful that we still have our friends with us, as we are nowhere near public transport. So plan A is to go to the post office first thing on Monday and hopefully be able to find the alternator there, install it and hunt for some new belts, in case we need them (though they are an unusual size and might be hard to find.) Plan B if the alternator isn’t at the post office is to contact the auto electrical suppliers here in Broome and hope we can find an alternator that will be big enough to get us home. Plan C if we can’t source another new alternator, is to try to find new bearings and see if we can get the old alternator running again. Prayers appreciated.

I got 3 loads of washing done in the meantime, while Matt was working on the bus. We chilled by the bus for the afternoon and then enjoyed a lovely group dinner of Chinese takeaway, thanks Ian for the shout. Looking forward to exploring Broome tomorrow in Trailways. 

I also have to tack weld the leaf spring bushings back on to the left leaf spring in the front as they have also snapped off and are loose in the spring and moving around sideways when we turn from time to time,(the two people reading this who know how these go together understand) not a major worry but annoying.especially as carrolls springs did these when I had new springs made.  And the caravan park spot has a nylon mat over the ground where I’m parked so that will put a stop to me sneaking in some welding in the caravan park,  as I’ll set fire to their matting. that’s annoying.  I’ll have to do it on the side of the road somewhere… luckily I’m used to working in a driveway . Alternator first.  

b

Didn’t have this warning sign at the end we started at …

Day 65 Derby

 We had a slow day today, and headed into Derby, only 20km away and met up with Meredith and Ian again, after they had a new fuel tank made and installed into Trailways. We sat and enjoyed a coffee at a cafe and art gallery together. We checked out the jetty and saw where they load and unload ships and trucks. It is very tidal and the tide was out and we could see some small fish swimming in the shallow muddy waters beneath the wharf. Ian and Meredith took us on a tour around town, before we split up to do our own thing. We got some fresh milk and posted a letter and headed out to the Mowanjum art centre and enjoyed the Indigenous art on display, mostly of their Wandjina or creator spirit (God). They played an interesting video explaining all about it and their history of the community and how they kept getting being moved from mission to mission over the years, but Wandjina was always with them, wherever they were.

We returned to our spot at Birdwood Downs Station and relaxed for the afternoon. I started to read the book I swapped at their book exchange. We went to the communal fire pit at sunset and yet again met up with Farmer Greg and partner Donna. It was a nice way to connect with others staying there and seeing if they were at the beginning or end of their Gibb River Road adventure. We then headed back to our Clippers for dinner together and making plans for our time in Broome. As I write this, some  curlews are calling out. I have actually become accustomed to their calls, and will miss it when this trip ends.

Day 64 Tunnel Creek

 We enjoyed another slow morning and packed up and headed down the rough road to Tunnel Creek. It was another bumpy and noisy ride. We waited for Brenda, David, Elise and Simon to arrive, before embarking on this walk. This was the location that the infamous Indigenous fellow Jandamurra had hidden himself from those trying to find him. It was a short walk to the limestone cave, and you had to clamber and climb over large boulders of pink and white quartz to get into the cave. (This cave walk came with many warnings that included that you would need torches, that bats and olive pythons lived in the cave, and often freshwater crocs may inhabit the water, that maybe deeper than your height. 😳 )

The cave had smaller rocks and pebbles and water to walk through to reach the granular sandy beach. The next pool of water required you to walk through (you couldn’t see the bottom of the cloudy water), and Matt went first, straight through the middle, and after a few steps of gradually deepening water, he stepped out  and managed to go almost completely under the water. Classic case of  the bottom gradually getting deeper, then next step not being there at all. Of course it was bloody freezing as well. Some times the purpose of your life is to act as a warning unto others…It was kind of comical really and the rest of us decided to try the edge of the pool, and found it to be shallower, but the water still reached the middle of my belly. You had to tread carefully and feel your way each step, as there were logs and rocks below the water. The water was freezing, but luckily the cave wasn’t too cold. The next section was a sandy beach with a few rocks. We marvelled at the stalactites and stalagmites and other typical features of a limestone cave. Some sections of the cave were 20-30 metres high , and some you could reach quite easily in the middle of the cave. We had been able to hear bats but not see them at the entrance to the cave. Sections of the cave had collapsed in the middle and let in some light but you did need the torches to see your way through a lot of the cave. The sandy beach led to another pool of shallower water and then past more rocks, and then more water and limestone cave features and a dark section. Round the bend the light from the exit lit up the cave enough for us to see and find our way to the end. We took a photo here, as this was as far as you could go, and there was more creek and bush beyond the cave. Here there was also a limestone shawl hanging from the ceiling but it was too high to get a good photo of.

On the return trip we turned off our torches to get a feel of how dark the cave was in sections. This time as we neared the end and the deepest pool, Matt made sure he walked by the edge and not through the middle. As I was a lot drier again by this stage. We hadn’t spotted any crocs or pythons, nor trod on any. We clambered back out over the big boulders and into the warm sunshine and headed back to Bridget. I felt proud of me for overcoming any fears (there were small children attempting to do the cave walk in their floaties and with pool noodles mind you, and if these little guys can do it!!) and for being able to do the walk and keep my upper chest dry and so be able to enjoy the adventure and the beauty of the cave. Then we spent the next hour or so on the very rough and bumpy road. You do see some people being idiots, and at one point as Matt rounded a bend, he saw this huge triple trailered road train coming the other way and then out of the dust from the road train, a car towing a caravan was overtaking the truck in its dust, making it almost impossible to see. Matt had to come to a stop, to allow this idiot to complete this unsafe manoeuvre. So did the road train.  The Truckie and I just exchanged bewildered gestures and carried on.Despite warnings and advice at every roadhouse and information  signposts about how to drive safely on the dusty road, people still take potentially fatal risks.😬😡

This road , Fairfield leopold downs road, is the worst road off the Gibb river road for me . It’s like an assault to all your senses , worse than walking into rooty hill RSL. I wanted to take a video of it but didn’t have my phone on me at the time and I couldn’t stop as every time I got below 40kmh the rear of the bus would start to bounce sideways and try to get in front of me. I’ll try to describe it. Imagine a four lane road like the m4.  Then make it dirt. Then corrugate it with 15cm deep corrugations in sand and dirt spaced 30cms apart , like rungs of a ladder .  Then eliminate the middle two lanes by making them wet and driving 14 mud ripping 4WD & caravans, and just tear up the middle of the road with 30cm deep trenches, leaving a single track down each side of the road that is passable. The mud ripped up section has dried out but the ruts are so deep that you could still get stuck in them , especially cause they are all over the place like a mad woman’s breakfast , as my dad says. So I had to stay at 55-60kmh to stop the windows falling out, and any faster the ruts would threaten to bottom out the suspension and the bus was very drifty and floaty on the rough surface. But all credit to Bridget, she battled though it and is still in one rattly piece.

We finally made it to the end of this terrible road and back on the Gibb River Road, heading to Derby. The road was now asphalt to Derby 🎉🎊. We feel like we can say ‘we survived the Gibb!’ We enjoyed the smoother drive and our ears were appreciative of less rattles and noise. We turned off about 20km short of Derby, to our location for the next couple of nights at Birdwood Downs Station, a cattle property. We checked in and as I walked into the office, the attendant said ‘you must be Sarah Smith, is that your impressive bus out there?’ Turns out Meredith had just called them to book in for tomorrow night and warned them of our imminent arrival. The managers are keen to take photos of the 3 Clippers when they are back together tomorrow. We enjoyed a most spectacular sunset, which was made to be so colourful because of a few wispy clouds and a hint of smoke. The Bakers arrived a while later and we were setting up and  enjoying dinner together before long and chatting about our day. We are all proud that despite the couple of issues for Trailways, all 3 Clippers made it down the Gibb River Road independently (not on the back of a truck!) I second that, most people we met were dubious about these 70 year old vehicles getting through the countless creeks and rivers we’ve had to cross, and the rough roads, but everyone was happy to see them wherever they went. Then they’d proceed to tell us all the places we’ve been spotted by them…

At lake argyle , Ian had a German couple camped next to the three of us, and people would be walking back to their vans past us, and then the German couples van beyond us . They told him that they had noticed that everyone who walked past the busses were smiling, like the busses made them happy. And they do.